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Archive-name: autos/toyota-faq/RAV4
URL: http://www.ralphb.net/RAV4FAQ.html
Copyright: (c) 1997-2001 by Ralph Becker, All Rights Reserved
Posting-frequency: monthly (15th of the month)
Last-modified: 17 April 2001
Toyota RAV4 FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)
Maintained by Ralph Becker
(Bright Red 1997 2-Door 4WD 5-Speed RAV4). Send comments, suggestions,
corrections, and additions to me at or
fill out this form: .
You can retrieve this FAQ in several ways:
- anonymous FTP
ftp ftp.ralphb.net /pub/RAV4/RAV4FAQ.txt
ftp rtfm.mit.edu /pub/faqs/autos/toyota-faq/RAV4
- World Wide Web
HTML Version:
Plain Text Version:
Palm/Pilot (Doc format) Version:
- E-Mail
Send an email to one of the following email addresses:
Put the following into the BODY of the message:
open ftp.ralphb.net
chdir /pub/RAV4
ascii
get RAV4FAQ.txt
quit
You should get back 2 emails, one showing a log of these
commands that were executed for you, and the other a uuencoded
copy of the plain text version of this FAQ file. Note that
it can sometimes take several hours to get a response to
your request; please be patient.
------------------------------
Subject: Table of Contents
0.0 - Disclaimer
1.0 - Finding Out About the RAV4
1.1 What's So Great About the RAV4?
1.2 Online Sources
1.2.1 WWW
1.2.2 RAV4 Mailing Lists
1.2.3 Usenet Newsgroups
1.3 Phone Numbers
1.4 Toyota-Supplied Information
1.5 What does "RAV" stand for?
2.0 - Buying a RAV4
2.1 Pricing
2.2 Dealer Information
2.2.1 How do I find a dealer in my area?
2.2.2 What about a buying service?
2.3 Miscellaneous Questions
2.3.1 Any good general sources of information for new owners?
2.3.2 What does the VIN mean?
2.3.3 Is the RAV4 safe?
2.3.4 Can I order a RAV4 with only the options I want?
2.3.5 Where do I get one of those cute little paper RAV4 models?
2.3.6 What's new about the 2000/2001 models?
2.4 How does the RAV4 compare to the competition?
3.0 - Keeping Your RAV4 Happy (:
3.1 General
3.1.1 How do I "break in" my new RAV4?
3.1.2 When should I change the oil the first time?
3.1.3 How does the Four Wheel Drive (4WD) system work?
3.1.4 What should I expect when Anti-Lock Brakes engage?
3.1.5 How can I keep from getting a shock when I exit my RAV4?
3.1.6 What should the fuel economy (Miles per Gallon) be?
3.1.7 What kind of fuel should I use?
3.1.8 How much gas can I put in my RAV?
3.1.9 Is my Fuel Gauge Inaccurate?
3.1.10 Is brake noise normal?
3.1.11 What size are the tires?
3.1.12 At what pressure should I keep the tires?
3.1.13 What should I buy to replace my worn tires?
3.1.14 Why doesn't my factory jack lift the vehicle off the ground?
3.1.15 What are the ECT and OD buttons on my automatic transmission for?
3.1.16 Why does the A/C come on when I use the defroster?
3.2 Maintenance and Modifications
3.2.1 What kind of parts can I get to modify my RAV4?
3.2.2 What is a K&N filter and what will it do for my RAV4?
3.2.3 Should I use an oil additive, like Slick 50?
3.2.4 Why is my gas pedal sticking?
3.2.5 How do I change my front brake pads?
3.2.6 How can I improve the stereo in my RAV4?
3.2.7 What size speakers does the RAV4 take?
3.2.8 Can I remove the rear seats to make more room?
3.2.9 How can I carry bikes with my RAV4?
3.2.10 Why won't my dual sunroof RAV4 2DR rear sunroof stay open?
3.2.11 Can I disable the passenger's side airbag?
3.2.12 Can I add a remote to my RS3000 security system?
3.2.13 What should I use to wash & wax my RAV4?
3.2.14 How can I touch up scratches/chips on my RAV4?
3.2.15 How do I get Wax off the Cladding?
Copyright Notice and Distribution Permission
------------------------------
Subject: 0.0) Disclaimer
All the information contained in this document is provided for the
convenience of current and prospective RAV4 owners. All
information is accurate as well as can be reasonably verified.
There are no guarantees or warranties stated or implied through
the distribution of this information. Use the information in this
document at your own risk, and no liability shall be given to the
author(s), owner(s), or provider(s). Any damage or loss is the
sole responsibility of the owner of the vehicle.
------------------------------
Subject: 1.0) Finding Out About the RAV4
------------------------------
Subject: 1.1) What's So Great About the RAV4?
The Toyota RAV4s are Toyota's entry in the small Sport-Utility Vehicle
(SUV) market. They appeared at dealers in the US in February 1996.
They have received many favorable reviews and have a combination of
economy, sporty feel, and attractive styling.
Here are some opinions from the RAV4 mailing list:
Advantages:
* Toyota reliability
* Good fuel economy
* Good light-duty off-road capability
* Good handling; sporty, car-like feel
* Aftermarket part & accessory availability
* Distinctive styling
Disadvantages:
* Purchase price
* Engine noise
* Lack of Engine Power
* Fragile front and rear bumpers
* Expensive to repair body damage
* Inaccessible cup holders (improved for '98)
* Distinctive styling
------------------------------
Subject: 1.2) Online Sources
------------------------------
Subject: 1.2.1) World Wide Web
Toyota Corporate Pages
Toyota Home Page
Toyota RAV4 page
Toyota dealer locator
RAV4 Links
Scott Cummings' RAV4 Zone
Kelly's Toyota RAV4 World
Kenton Lee's list of RAV4 links
RAV4 Web Ring
RAV4 Price & Specification Information
Edmund's
Kelley Blue Book
Microsoft CarPoint
------------------------------
Subject: 1.2.2) RAV4 Mailing Lists
The headers and table of contents of this FAQ will be posted to the
Toyota RAV4 Mailing List(s) on or about the 15th of each month.
The original RAV4-L mailing list has been shut down. Three new RAV4 lists
have been created on the web site Yahoo Groups, formerly known as eGroups:
1) A "Classic" RAV4 Mailing List has been created to cover issues
specific to all model year 2000 and earlier RAV4s
2) A "New" RAV4 Mailing List has been created to cover issues
specific to all model year 2001 and later RAV4s:
3) A general RAV4 mailing list has been created to cover issues
that relate to all model years of the RAV4:
To subscribe to a RAV4 mailing list, go to the appropriate link listed above.
Click on the link to Subscribe, and follow the instructions. You will need to
register with Yahoo Groups if you are not already registered there.
To post to the list, send an email message to ,
, or .
Please do not send subscribe or unsubscribe requests or other
administrative requests to these addresses, as all members of the list
will see them, and you cannot change your subscription options that
way. To post, you must already be a subscriber to the appropriate
RAV4 list, and you can only post messages to the list from the
email address you subscribed from.
To remove yourself from a list, go to the list home page and follow
the unsubscribe instructions. You can also choose whether to receive
individual messages, a digest format, or to view messages on the
list web site only for each list you join.
List Etiquette
========
Stay on topic - this list is about the Toyota RAV4, and by extension
4X4 vehicles and technology. No one is interested in virus alerts,
sales pitches, scam warnings, or personal topics. Please find an
appropriate venue for your posting.
Be polite and cordial when you post to the Lists. Remember, hundreds
of people may see what you write. We are all only trying to share
information; please try not to be insulting or inflammatory. If
something bothers you personally, ignore it or take the debate
off the list.
When responding to someone on the list, trim their original posting
to be as small as possible, just leaving the essence of what you are
responding to. Excess posting of nested replies are annoying and
waste bandwidth, and make reading the Digest version of the list
almost unbearable.
If you use Netscape or other mailer that formats mail text with HTML
code, or if you use an on-line email service that sends HTML,
please turn this feature off when posting to the list. Also, some
mailers will form a MIME attachment automatically; please disable
this feature. The majority of readers do not use these features,
they make reading postings very annoying, again, especially when
reading the Digest format, and they consume bandwidth unnecessarily.
Finally, please don't post blatantly commercial postings. Most people
who are savvy enough to subscribe to a mailing list would consider
such a posting as spam, and would never buy from you anyway. It is
OK to respond to a request for information about a specific product
or solution, but keep to the point and provide a URL where people can
get more information if they want it.
------------------------------
Subject: 1.2.3) Usenet Newsgroups
alt.autos.toyota - General Toyota
rec.autos.4x4 - 4X4 and Off-Road
rec.autos.misc - General automotive
------------------------------
Subject: 1.3) Phone Numbers
800-331-4331 - Toyota Customer Assistance Center (US Only)
800-GO-TOYOTA (800-468-6968) - Toyota Information Center (US Only)
US Corporate Office:
Toyota Motor Sales USA
19001 S. Western Avenue
Torrance, Calif. 90509
(310) 618-4000 (general number)
(310) 781-2442 (Exectuive Customer Relations)
------------------------------
Subject: 1.4) Toyota-Supplied Information
Call 800-GO-TOYOTA or see your dealer to get a brochure that
describes the features of the RAV4. You can also get a
brochure that describes the entire Toyota vehicle line.
To get the RAV4 CD-ROM, call 800-GO-TOYOTA (US Only).
The CD-ROM is free and runs on Windows 3.1 and Mac System 7.
You can also get a CD-ROM that describes all the vehicles in
Toyota's line.
See your dealer for other information, including the Automobile
Magazine "1997 Automobile of the Year" article and a Competitive
Comparisons handout that gives the results of various tests.
------------------------------
Subject: 1.5) What does "RAV4" stand for?
Recreational Active Vehicle with 4-Wheel Drive, according to Toyota.
------------------------------
Subject: 2.0) Buying a RAV4
------------------------------
Subject: 2.1) Pricing
For current invoice/MSRP prices and standard equipment and package
content, check your newsstand for a price guide or look at the
Edmund's or
Kelly's Blue Book web sites.
Prices paid will vary widely depending on the market for RAVs in your
area, and availability. The RAV4 has proved to be very popular and
deep discounts are rare in some areas. 2-door models are somewhat
less popular that 4-door, and good deals can sometimes be struck.
------------------------------
Subject: 2.2) Dealer Information
------------------------------
Subject: 2.2.1) How do I find a dealer in my area?
Your local telephone directory "yellow pages" should list new car
dealers. You can also check the Toyota Dealer Locator
.
They'll give you names/numbers of the dealers in your area.
------------------------------
Subject: 2.2.2) What about a buying service?
Online car brokers or buying services provide a convenient way to
link buyers and dealers. They are usually time-efficient and
hassle-free, but do not always allow a buyer to get the lowest
possible price. People have reported that they used the buying
service price as a starting point when negotiating with a dealer
in person.
------------------------------
Subject: 2.3) Miscellaneous Questions
------------------------------
Subject: 2.3.1) Any good general sources of information for new owners?
Yes! Look in your glove compartment and pull out your owner's manual.
Every new car owner should spend some time reading their manual
cover-to-cover, preferably before they drive the car for the first time.
This book should be considered the definitive source of information
regarding features and their operation, driving procedures, maintenance
schedules, and other information.
------------------------------
Subject: 2.3.2) What does the VIN mean?
According to Kelly Malleck :
Digit 1 - Country
Digit 2 - Make
Digit 3 - Vehicle Type
Digit 4 - Others
Digit 5 - Line
Digit 6 - Series
Digit 7 - Body
Digit 8 - Engine
Digit 9 - Check Digit
Digit 10 - Model Year
Digit 11 - Plant
Digits 12-17 - Serial Number
Note: On the RAV4, if Digit 4 is G or X, you have a 2WD;
If Digit 4 H or Y, you have a 4WD.
------------------------------
Subject: 2.3.3) Is the RAV4 safe?
Crash testing of vehicles is done by the National Highway Traffic
Safety Agency (NHTSA) .
The following was summarized from their web site information; go
there for complete details.
The RAV4's crash test performance was about average. Cars are tested
against other cars in their size and weight class. The RAV4 rated
3 Stars (out of 5), indicating a 21 to 35 percent chance of serious
injury in a head-on 35 MPH crash with a similar vehicle. These
overall results combine the head and chest injury measurements,
and the same rating was given to both the driver and front-seat
passenger.
------------------------------
Subject: 2.3.4) Can I order a RAV4 with only the options I want?
In the US, some regions allow factory orders and some do not. In
regions that do allow factory orders, not all dealers allow them.
If your dealer does take factory orders, you can expect to wait at
least several months for the car to be shipped. If you have
information about which regions do or do not allow factory orders,
let me know so I can add that here.
Some dealers say they will take a factory order, when in fact
they don't. These dealers simply wait for a car that matches
or nearly matches your order to arrive by chance. They may be
able to access information about all vehicles shipped to your
region and/or swap cars with another dealer.
------------------------------
Subject: 2.3.5) Where do I get one of those cute little paper RAV4 models?
You can't. These were included in the 1996 RAV4 US brochure and
are no longer available. The model is a clever heavy paper cutout
that you fold and insert tabs into slots to form a '96 Bright Red
2-Door RAV4. However, you can get a scanned-in version online
that you can print with your color printer onto thick paper stock
and get a reasonable imitation. See:
.
------------------------------
Subject: 2.3.6) What's new about the 2001 models?
Culled from the Kelley Blue Book site:
The RAV4 is all new for 2001. See Toyota's offical web site at:
.
A comprehensive collection of links is available at Kenton's web site, at:
.
------------------------------
Subject: 2.4) How does the RAV4 compare to the competition?
This is a very subjective area, but in general, the RAV4 compares
very well to it's competition. People like the RAV4 for it's combination
of visual appeal ("cuteness"), good fuel economy, versatile FT 4WD
system (fair off-road and excellent on-road), comfort, space, handling,
acceleration, accessibility, and reliability. The RAV4 does have it's
drawbacks, notably it's styling, lack of power, lack of space (compared
to full-size sport-utilities), cheap construction in places, crashworthiness,
mediocre sound system, and interior noise levels.
Primary U.S. competitors as compared to the RAV4:
Honda CR-V: much more conservative styling (often compared to a
minivan), reactive 4WD system. Same reliability as Toyota, more
interior room, more powerful engine. Worse off-road performance.
Kia Sportage: Cheap. Poor engineering touches all around. Rough
ride, uncomfortable seating, difficult access to cargo area.
Subaru Forrester: Styling like a station wagon. Very car-like ride,
low ground clearance, comfortable. Reactive 4WD system, similar
to CR-V. Fuel efficient. Full-featured, excellent value.
Suzuki Grand Vitara: Poor construction dominates the overall comments
about this vehicle; inexpensive, but shows it. More horsepower, but
doesn't seem to use it well, and correspondingly worse gas mileage.
Good off-road vehicle for the price.
------------------------------
Subject: 3.0) Keeping Your RAV4 Happy
------------------------------
Subject: 3.1) General
------------------------------
Subject: 3.1.1) How do I "break in" my new RAV4?
According to Chips Yap :
"For those interested (and many of you might be as you'd have a new
RAV4), these are some of the things I do when I run-in a new vehicle.
The process is usually useful for the first 5,000 kms or 3,500 miles.
(Disclaimer: If you choose to follow any of the tips here, I accept
no responsibility for any damage or loss resulting).
First of all, why run-in a new vehicle? The reason is that the
manufacturing process of metal parts leaves them with some minute
imperfections and also they are being mated against other parts.
Running-in enables these parts to interface more smoothly by causing
a certain degree of beneficial wear and also by wearing down the
imperfections. Note that they aren't defects in any sense. A visible
example would be on new tires where you see stuff that looks
like 'hair' sticking out. As you drive around, they get worn off.
Over the past decade, manufacturing processes have improved a lot and
the parts are coming out more perfect in form and tolerances are finer.
So the running-in process is not as crucial - but still important - as
before when you even had to use special oil which permitted a higher
wear rate.
New engines are tight because everything's new so some degree of wear
has to occur to allow them to rev freely. But unlike a decade or two
ago, you don't have to be as 'religious' about running-in and I note
that the manuals are now providing only basic and simple advice. In
fact, the notion of treating a new engine with tender loving care
contrasts to what you will find if you visit an engine factory. The
new engines, after assembly but before installation in the car, are
run at high revs by a computer. It provides some running-in and also
allows for checking of integrity or whatever. But to see it being
done can be quite shocking!
You still need to run-in a new car and engine, allow the various parts
to bed in and function with each other efficiently. This calls for
thoughtful driving strategies but they are not necessarily boring.
The main thing to remember is not to allow your engine to load up,
meaning you don't try to drive it up an incline in top gear and
labor the engine. The load is bad for the engine at any time, more
so when it's brand new. The effects can be long-lasting and ruin the
engine's ability to give its best for the rest of its life.
Even if you have an autobox, it's a good idea to manually disengage
the overdrive on an incline or even slot into 2nd. You won't hurt the
engine by doing that and you will even do it a favor if you help it to
run up the incline with less effort. Using the gearbox, auto or manual,
liberally is a good way to run it in and you will be rewarded by a
smoother unit later on.
Varying the speed is also an important point and it is mentioned in
the manual. This exercise is intended to get your engine used to high
and low revving conditions. If you have cruise control, don't use it
for at least 3,500 miles because the constant speed is not good. Even
on the highway, you should vary your speed a lot. You can do so as you
drive by using lower gears and shifting up and down.
But you should also pay attention to what rpm you run up to. For the
first few 100 miles, maybe you shouldn't get past 4000 rpm. Then you
can gradually go higher and by maybe 1500 miles, you can start to push
it to 5000 rpm. Do not run it up to 5000 rpm and just hold it there;
rev it up as you're driving and change up quickly when you get to
5000 rpm.
When you get up to 2000 miles or more, maybe you might like to try
running it up to the redline for brief spurts. I learnt that this is
helpful for the engine from a racing driver and mechanic. You
accelerate in 2nd gear up the the redline and shift up right away.
Don't hold it there longer than a shift action. Why? The high revs
give the engine a 'taste' of that sort of condition and prepares it
for the ability to cope with such conditions. It's like when you do
a high-speed run down the highway and after that, the engine feels
nice and free-revving (although that's more of the oil being well
circulated too).
If you stick to low revs all the time, there is a possibility that your
engine will remain tight and unwilling to give all its potential when
you want to drive hard and fast. I have experienced engines where
the owners really pussy-footed them in the run-in period and they
never had an edge in performance compared to other similar engines.
The manual doesn't seem to recommend an oil change at 1000 km (600 mi)
but I am used to it and will do so. No harm and the only thing that
will be hurt is my pocket. I personally believe that the first 600
miles are a time of great wear inside and so the oil will have a lot of
metal stuff in it. The filter will remove it, of course, but it's still
there and it's minute too. I'd rather get rid of the dirty oil and have
some new oil inside; besides, the original oil is of unknown quality
to me although I'm sure Toyota would use something good enough. The
next oil change would be at 5000 kms or 3500 miles, but you can follow
the interval indicated in your manual.
For the brakes, I also take a bit of care. You need to brake a lot
to run-in the new pads but you also have to be cautious about how
hard you brake. Excessive pressure on new pads can cause them
to glaze over and that's going to reduce braking power. Some people
drive around with a very light pressure for a while to wear them
out a bit but you need to really be deliberate about that.
Other things: I like to use Rain-X, a liquid which makes the glass
very slippery so that water beads off easily. I put it on the front
and back, the front side windows and the door mirrors. It's
corrosive so don't let it get on your paintwork!
I also like to spray on fabric protector which helps to stop
moisture from seeping in (most of the time).
And I've earlier mentioned the point about loose screws and bolts.
Take a screwdriver and small spanner (preferably a box type) and
gently tighten the fasterners you can see. Not too tight but if you
find them able to take another turn, then do so. From experience,
I've always found the bolts holding the front fenders to the body
(along the side of the engine bay) to be less than tight (same thing
in the RAV4)."
------------------------------
Subject: 3.1.2) When should I change the oil the first time, and what kind should I use?
Some people think that a lot of metal particles and assorted gunk
collect during the break-in period, so they get the oil changed
at around 500-1500 miles, or 800-2400 km. You should then follow
the schedule in your owner's manual (every 7500 miles (12000 km)
for regular service, or every 3750 miles (6000 km) for severe service)
as the minimum oil change interval. The extra oil change is considered
by many to be cheap insurance. Also, average driving often falls
under "severe" conditions that require more frequent oil changes.
The manual recommends using 5W-30 or 10W-30 SG oil, depending on
the expected temperature during the oil's service life. The 10W-30
should not be used under extreme cold conditions (below 0 F). You
can use a conventional oil, or synthetic. Synthetic oil has better
heat and cold handling characteristics, and resists viscosity
breakdown much better than conventional oil, but is significantly
more expensive.
------------------------------
Subject: 3.1.3) How does the Four Wheel Drive (4WD) system work?
Very well :) Actually, it depends on your choice of transmission, and
whether you have the Limited-Slip Differential (LSD) option. See the
Traction Adding Devices FAQ
for more general information on these types of devices.
If you have a 2-Wheel-Drive RAV4, then it is powered by the front
wheels only.
If you have 4WD, a full-time system puts power down to all four wheels
at all times. Some refer to this as an "all-wheel drive" system, rather
than 4WD, but AWD usually refers to "reactive" systems that delay
transfer of power until after slip is detected. The RAV4 drive system
is most correctly called "Full-time 4 wheel drive." It is reported that
25% of the engine power is normally sent to each wheel.
- For automatic transmissions, there is a center coupling that
detects wheel slip and gradually locks the front and rear axles as
the slip increases. There are no driver controls for this feature.
- For manual transmissions, there is a center differential lock button
on the dashboard that manually locks the front and rear axles. When
engaging, an amber "C. Diff Lock" indicator lights on the dashboard.
When disengaging, there will be a beeping sound until the center
differential is fully disengaged; it may beep just once, or may
beep for as much as a full minute (seems to beep longer when cold).
Toyota recommends that it only be used only in difficult situations,
and that the center differential can be damaged if used improperly.
- For 4WD vehicles, there is an optional rear LSD available. In 1996
and 1997 model year, it was available only on standard transmission
models, but starting in 1998, the rear LSD is available in all 4WD models.
This device is called a "Torsen-type" LSD by Toyota, and is one of
the most sophisticated and effective types available. It automatically
detects wheel slip by either rear wheel and redirects the most power
to the wheel that is slipping the least. There are no driver controls
required for this device.
------------------------------
Subject: 3.1.4) What should I expect when Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) engage?
You should get feedback in the form of an audible "chunk chunk chunk"
sound AND a strong pulsing of the brake pedal. This is normal and
you should NOT release the pressure on the brake pedal or attempt
to modulate the brake pedal pressure. If you live in the snow belt,
a good way to test your ABS is to find an open, snow-covered area,
drive to about 30MPH, and slam on the brakes as hard as you can.
The described effect should be obvious.
Warning: Don't test or show off your ABS system until after the
break-in period, because it can create hot spots that can cause
excessive brake system wear.
------------------------------
Subject: 3.1.5) How can I keep from getting a shock when I exit my RAV4?
Method 1: Get a conductive strap that bolts to the frame - when you
stop, the end contacts the ground and bleeds the charge off the car.
These work well, but wear out rather quickly.
Method 2: Keep your hand on the edge of the door (or any metal part)
as you exit the vehicle.
Method 3: Whenever you exit your vehicle, hold your key and make sure
that the first thing you touch after you exit is made of metal, and
that you touch it with your key first. This will dissipate any static
electricity.
Method 4: a quick spray of a product such as Static Guard also helps
to eliminate the static buildup from rubbing on the cloth seats.
(Thanks to Jim Janecek )
Method 5: Drive naked. Then you won't build up any static electricity
between you and your clothes. If you wet your pants, that should
dissipate the excess charge as well.
Also from Jim Janecek:
"You might want to also check the type of tires on vehicle, if they are
'low rolling resistance' tires they may have more of a silicone base
instead of a carbon base and this does not allow the static charge
that normally builds up on a object moving through the air to
disperse through the tires. The silicone base is more of an insulator
than the carbon base.
Unfortunately, I don't have a list of what tires have the silicone base
and what have the usual carbon base in them.
I just know that Michelin had a series of 'low rolling resistance' tires
that came as factory standard on some recent (2-3 year old) model
Hondas and they would not allow the static buildup to bleed off into
the ground through the tires, so when you stopped at a toll booth
and touched the tollbooth operator, the operator would get a real
big shock."
------------------------------
Subject: 3.1.6) What should the fuel economy (Miles per Gallon) be?
First, remember that your MPG will vary depending on many factors:
- how far you are into your break-in period.
- whether you have 2WD or 4WD (4WD reduces fuel economy).
- automatic or manual transmission (manuals are generally better).
- whether you run the air conditioning (A/C reduces fuel economy).
- cars that are sold in California and Massachusetts (others?) are
required to have the "CA" emissions option that can reduce mileage.
- many states now require "oxygenated" fuels [MBTE additive] in
cold weather or even year-round (can reduce fuel economy).
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