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Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part5

[Note:  The complete FAQ is available via anonymous ftp from
draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12), in pub/rec.bicycles.]

------------------------------

Subject: 9.12  Studded Tires
From: Name removed by request

[A summary on studded tires compiled by a reader.  A complete copy of
the responses she received, including some that give directions for
making your own studded tires, is in the archive.]

Studded tires do help, especially on packed snow and ice. On fresh snow
and on water mixed with snow (i.e. slush) they're not significantly different 
from unstudded knobbies. 

On dry pavement they are noisy and heavy, but can be used; watch out for
cornering, which is degraded compared to unstudded tires.

Several people recommend a Mr. Tuffy or equivalent with them; one 
respondent says he gets more flats with a liner than without.

In the U.S. the IRC Blizzard tires are commercially available. They
can also be made.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.13  Cycling Myths

Following are various myths about cycling and why they are/aren't true.


Myth: Wearing a helmet makes your head hotter than if you didn't wear one.

Actual measurements under hard riding conditions with ANSI standard
helmets show no consistent temperature difference from helmetless
riders.  Part of the reason is that helmets provide insulated
protection from the sun as well as some airflow around the head. 
(Les Earnest  Les@cs.Stanford.edu)


Myth: You need to let the air out of your tires before shipping your bike
      on an airplane - if you don't, the tires will explode.

Assume your tire at sea level, pumped to 100 psi.  Air pressure at sea
level is (about) 15psi. Therefore, the highest pressure which can be
reached in the tire is 100+15=115psi.  Ergo: There is no need to
deflate bicycle tires prior to flight to avoid explosions. 
(Giles Morris  gilesm@bird.uucp)
Addendum:  The cargo hold is pressurized to the same pressure as the
passenger compartment.
(Tom ?  tom@math.ufl.edu)


Myth: You can break a bike lock with liquid nitrogen or other liquified gases

Freon cannot cool the lock sufficiently to do any good.  Steel
conducts heat into the cooling zone faster than it can be removed by a
freeze bomb at the temperatures of interest.  Liquid nitrogen or other
gasses are so cumbersome to handle that a lock on a bike cannot be
immersed as it must be to be effective.  The most common and
inconspicuous way to break these locks is by using a 4 inch long 1
inch diameter commercial hydraulic jack attached to a hose and pump
unit. 
(Jobst Brandt  jobst_brandt%01@hp1900.desk.hp.com)

[More myths welcome!]

------------------------------

Subject: 9.14  Descending I
From: Roger Marquis 

[More up to date copies of Roger's articles can be found at
 http://www.roble.com/marquis/]

Descending ability, like any other fine-motor skill, is best improved
with practice. The more time spent on technical descents the more
your confidence and speed will develop. The difficulty for bicyclists
is that each descent requires a climb. There are hot shots who
practice on their motorcycles before races with strategic descents.
For most of us the best solution is frequent group rides.  Group
rides are the best path to developing real bike handling skills,
on descents and elsewhere.

After experience the second most important component of a fast
descent is relaxation. Too much anxiety can impair concentration
and cause you to miss important aspects of the road surface. Pushing
the speed to the point of fear will not help develop descending
skills. Work first on relaxation and smoothness (no sudden movements,
braking or turning) and speed will follow.

Third in importance is technique. Technique, however, is difficult
or impossible to learn from reading about it. For that reason this
article touches on just four of the many technical facets of
descending: apexing, breaking, lean, and passing.

Apexing is the art of straightening out a corner by using the
breadth of the lane or roadway. A fast descender will set up his
or her line well in advance of a corner, entering it from the
outside edge of the road for the widest possible angle. The apex,
or mid-point, is crossed at the opposite or inside edge of the
road, finally exiting again on the outside (always leaving room
for traffic, error and unforeseen hazard). The key is to _gradually_
get into position and _smoothly_ follow the line through the corner.
If you find yourself making _any_ quick, jerky movements take that
as a sign that you need to slow down and devote a little more
attention further up the road.

Use the brakes ONLY up to the beginning of a corner. NEVER APPLY
THE BRAKES THROUGH A CORNER. At that point any traction used for
braking will reduce the traction available for cornering. If you
do have to brake after entering a curve make every effort to
straighten your line before applying the brakes. If the road surface
is good use primarily the front brake. If traction is poor switch
to the rear brake and begin breaking earlier. In auto racing circles
there are two schools of thought on braking technique. One advocates
gradually releasing the brakes upon entering the corner. The other
advises hard braking right up to the beginning of the curve and
abruptly releasing them just before entering the curve. Cyclists
should probably combine these techniques depending on the road
surface, rim trueness, brake pad hardness, headset wear and the
proximity of other riders.

Motorcyclists and bicyclists lean their bikes very differently in
a corner.  Motorcyclists keep their bikes as upright as possible
to avoid scraping the pegs or pipes. Bicyclists on the other hand
lean their bikes into the corner and keep the body upright. Both
motorcyclists and bicyclists extend the inside knee down to lower
the center of gravity. To _pedal_ through a corner make like a
motorcyclist and keep the bike upright while the inside pedal is
down.

One of the most difficult aspects of fast descents is passing.
Unfortunately, there are good climbers who are slow descenders. As
a result it is not always possible to begin a descent ahead of
someone who you may want to pass. If you find yourself behind a
slow rider either hang out a safe distance behind or pass quickly
but carefully. Passing on a descent is always difficult and can be
dangerous. By the same token, if you find yourself ahead of someone
who obviously wants to pass, let them by at the earliest safe
moment. It's never appropriate to impede someone's progress on a
training ride whether they are on a bicycle or in a car. Always
make plenty of room for anyone trying to pass no matter what the
speed limit is.

Keep in mind that downhill racing is not what bicycle racing is
all about. There is no need to keep up with the Jones'. This is
what causes many a crash. Compete against yourself on the descents.
Belgians are notoriously slow descenders due to the consistently
rainy conditions there yet some of the best cyclists in the world
train on those rainy roads. Don't get caught pushing it on some
wet or unfamiliar descent. Be prepared for a car or a patch of dirt
or oil in the middle of your path around _every_ blind corner no
matter how many times you've been on a particular road. Take it
easy, relax, exercise your powers of concentration and hammer again
when you can turn the pedals.

If you're interested in exploring this further the best books (and
videos) on bike handling I've read are the "Twist of The Wrist"
series by motorcycle racer Keith Code (http://www.superbikeschool.com).

Roger Marquis (marquis@roble.com)

------------------------------

Subject: 9.15  Descending II
From:  Jobst Brandt 
Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 16:35:42 PDT

Descending and Fast Cornering

Descending on mountain roads, bicycles can reach speeds that are more
common on motorcycles.  Speeds that are otherwise not attainable, or
at least not continuously.  Criterium racing also presents this
challenge, but not as intensely.  Unlike a motorcycle, the bicycle is
lighter than the rider and power cannot be applied when banked over
when cornering hard.  Because narrow bicycle tires inflated hard have
little traction margin, a slip on pavement is usually unrecoverable.

Drifting a Road Bicycle on Pavement

Riders have claimed they can slide a bicycle on dry pavement in curves
to achieve greater cornering speed, as in drifting through a turn.  A
drift, in contrast to a slide, means that both wheels slip, which is
even more difficult.  This notion may come from observing motorcycles,
that can cause a rear wheel slide by applying power when banked over.
Besides, when questioned about how this is done, the proponent says
that the ability was observed, done by others.

A bicycle can be pedaled only at lean angles far less than the maximum
without grounding a pedal, so hard cornering is always done coasting,
hence, there is no power in hard cornering.  Although bicycles with
high ground clearance have been built, they showed only that pedaling
imbalance has such a disturbing influence on traction, that pedaling
at a greater lean angle than that of a standard road racing bicycles
has no benefit.  That is why road bicycles are built the way they are,
no higher than is useful.

That bicycle tires have no margin for recovering a slip at maximum
lean angle, has been tested in lean-slip tests on roads and testing
machines.  For smooth tires on pavement, slipout occurs at slightly
less than 45 degrees from the road surface and is both precipitous and
unrecoverable.  Although knobby tires have a less sudden slipout and
can be drifted around curves, they begin to side-slip at a more
upright angle as their tread fingers walk rather than slip.  For this
reason, knobby tires cannot achieve lean angles of smooth tires and
offer no cornering advantage on pavement.

How to Corner

Cornering requires estimating the required lean angle before reaching
the apex of the turn where the angle with the road surface is the
critical parameter rather the angle with the vertical, as is evident
from banked curves.  Lean angle is limited by the available traction
that must be assessed from velocity and appearance of the surface.
For good pavement, this angle is about 45 degrees, in the absence of
oil, water, or smooth and slick spots.  Therefore, a curve banked
inward 10 degrees, allows a lean of up to at least 55 degrees from the
vertical, while a crowned road with no banking, where the surface
falls off about 10 degrees, would allow only up to 35 degrees.

Banked curves have a greater effect than just adding to the maximum
lean angle, because with a steeper banking, more of the centripetal
cornering force goes into increasing traction directly into the
banking up to the point of a vertical wall where only the maximum
G-forces limit what speed a bicyclists can attain.  In contrast, an
off banked curve makes cornering progressively more difficult until
the bicycle will slip even at zero speed.  This effect is more
naturally apparent to riders who exceeded these limits early in life
and  have added the experience to expected natural phenomena.

The skill of visualizing effects of speed, traction, braking, and
curvature are complex, but is something humans and other creatures do
regularly in self propulsion.  The difficulty arises in adapting this
to higher speeds.  When running, we anticipate how fast and sharply to
turn on a sidewalk, dirt track, or lawn, to avoid sliding.  The method
is the same on a bicycle although the consequences of error are more
severe.

Cornering requires reflexes to dynamics that are easily developed in
youth, while people who have not exercised this in a long time find
they can no longer summon these skills.  A single fall strongly
reinforces doubt, so cautious practice is advisable if returning to
bicycling after a long time.

Countersteer

Countersteer is a popular subject for people who belatedly discover or
rediscover how to balance.  What is not apparent, is that two wheeled
vehicles can be controlled ONLY by countersteer, there is no other
way.  Unlike a car, a bicycle cannot be diverted from a straight path
by steering the wheel to one side.  The bicycle must first be leaned
in that direction by steering it ever so slightly the other way.  This
is the means by which a broomstick is balanced on the palm of the hand
or a bicycle on the road.  The point of support is moved beneath the
mass, in line with the combined forces of gravity and cornering, and
it requires steering, counter and otherwise.  It is so obvious that
runners never mention it, although football, basketball, and ice
hockey players conspicuously do it.

Braking

Once the basics of getting around a corner are developed, doing it
fast involves careful use of the brakes.  Besides knowing how steeply
to lean in curves, understanding braking makes the difference between
the average and the fast rider.  When approaching a curve with good
traction, the front brake can be used almost exclusively, because it
is capable of slowing the bicycle so rapidly that nearly all weight
transfers to the front wheel, at which point the rear brake is nearly
useless.  Once in the curve, more and more traction is used to resist
lateral slip as the lean angle increases, but that does not mean the
brakes cannot be used.  When banked over, braking should be done with
both brakes, because now neither wheel has much traction to spare and
with lighter braking, weight transfers diminishes.  A feel for how
hard the front brake must be applied for rear wheel lift-off, can be
developed at low speed.

Braking in Corners

Why brake in the turn?  If all braking is done before the turn, speed
will be slower than necessary before the apex.  Anticipating maximum
speed for the apex is difficult, and because the path is not a
circular arc, speed must be trimmed all the way to that point.  Fear
of braking in curves usually comes from an incident of injudicious
braking at a point where braking should have been done with a gentle
touch to match the conditions.

Substantial weight transfer from the rear to the front wheel will
occur with strong use of the front brake on good traction just before
entering the curve.  When traction is poor or the lean angle is great,
deceleration cannot be large and therefore, weight transfer will be
small, so light braking with both wheels is appropriate.  If traction
is miserable, only the rear brake should be used, because although a
rear skid is recoverable, a front skid is generally not.  An exception
to this is in deep snow, where the front wheel can slide and function
as a sled runner while being steered.

Braking at maximum lean

For braking in a curve, take the example of a rider cornering with
good traction, leaning at 45 degrees, the equivalent of 1G centrifugal
acceleration.  Braking with 1/10g increases the traction demand by one
half percent.  The sum of cornering and braking vectors is the square
root of the sum of their squares, SQRT(1^2+0.1^2)=1.005 or an increase
of 0.005.  In other words, there is room to brake substantially during
maximum cornering.  Because the lean angle changes as the square of
the speed, braking can rapidly reduce the angle and allow even more
braking.  For this reason skilled racers nearly always apply both
brakes into the apex of turns.

Suspension

Beyond leaning and braking, suspension helps substantially in
descending.  For bicycles without built-in suspension, this is
furnished by the legs.  Standing up is not necessary on roads with
fine ripples, just taking the weight off the pelvic bones is adequate.
For rougher roads, enough clearance must be used so the saddle carries
no weight.  The reason for this is twofold.  Vision will become
blurred if the saddle is not unloaded, and traction will be
compromised if the tires are not bearing with uniform force on the
road while rolling over bumps.  Ideally the tires should bear on the
road at constant load.  Besides, if the road has whoop-de-doos, the
seated rider will get launched from the saddle and possibly crash.

Lean the Bicycle, the Rider, or Both

Some riders believe that sticking the knee out or leaning the body
away from the bicycle, improves cornering.  Sticking out a knee is the
same thing that riders without cleats do when they stick out a foot in
dirt track motorcycle fashion.  On paved roads this is a useless but
reassuring gesture that, on uneven roads, even degrades control.  Any
body weight that is not centered over the bicycle (leaning the bike or
sticking out a knee) puts a side load on the bicycle, and side loads
cause steering motions over uneven road.  Getting weight off the
saddle is also made more difficult by such maneuvers.

To verify this, coast down a straight but rough road, weight on one
pedal with the bike slanted, and note how the bike follows an erratic
line.  In contrast, if you ride centered on the bike you can ride
no-hands perfectly straight over the same road.  While leaning off the
bike, trail of the front wheel causes steering on rough roads.

Outside Pedal Down

It is often said that putting the outside pedal down in a curve
improves cornering.  Although most experienced riders do this, it is
not because it has anything to do with traction.  The reason is that
it enables the rider to unload the saddle while standing with little
effort on a locked knee, cushioning his weight on his ankle.  This can
only be done on the outside pedal because the inside pedal would hit
the road.  However, standing on one extended leg does not work on
rougher roads, because the ankle cannot absorb large road bumps nor
raise the rider high enough from the saddle to avoid getting bounced.
Rough roads require rising high enough from the saddle to avoid hard
contact while the legs supply shock absorbing knee action, with pedals
and cranks horizontal.

Body Contortions

Most of the "body English" riders display is gratuitous gesturing,
much like the motorcyclists who stick their butt out in curves while
their bikes never get down to 45 degrees (the angle below which hiking
out becomes necessary to keep hardware from dragging on the road).  In
fact, in a series of tight ess bends, there's no time to do any of
this.  It's done by supporting weight on the (horizontally positioned)
pedals, and unless the road is rough, with a light load on the saddle.
On rough roads, the cheeks of the saddle, (the ones that went away
with the Flite like saddles) are used to hold the bicycle stably
between the legs while not sitting.

The path through a curve is not symmetrical for a bicycle, because it
can slow down much faster than it can regain speed.  Thus the
trajectory is naturally asymmetric.  Brakes are generally used to the
apex (that is usually not the middle) of the curve, where pedaling at
that lean angle is not possible, nor does pedaling accelerate as fast
as braking decelerates.

Hairpin Turns

Although the railroad term switchback arises from early mountain
railroading where at the end of a traverse, a switch is turned to back
up the next traverse, after which another switch is turned to head up
the next, on roads these are hairpin turns.  In such turns trajectory
asymmetry is most conspicuous, because braking can be hard enough to
raise the rear wheel when entering but one cannot exit with such
acceleration.  For this reason, riders often find themselves with
extra road on the exit of such turns, having slowed down too much.

Vision

Where to direct vision is critical for fast cornering.  Central vision
should be focused on the pavement where the tire will track, while
allowing peripheral vision, with its low resolution and good
sensitivity to motion, to detect obstacles and possible oncoming
traffic.  Peripheral vision monitors surroundings anyway, so the
presence of a car in that "backdrop" does not require additional
consideration other than its path.

If central vision is directed at the place where an oncoming vehicle
might appear, its appearance presents a new problem of confrontation,
stopping image processing of the road surface for substantial time.
Because the color or model of car is irrelevant, this job can be left
to peripheral vision in high speed primitive processing, while
concentrating on pavement surface and composition.

When following another bicycle or a car downhill, the same technique
is even more important, because by focusing on the leading vehicle,
pavement and road alignment information is being obscured giving a
tendency to mentally become a passenger of that vehicle.  Always look
ahead of the vehicle, observing it only peripherally.

Riders often prefer to keep their head upright in curves, although
leaning the head with the bicycle and body is more natural to the
motion.  Pilots who roll their aircraft do not attempt to keep their
head level during the maneuver, or in curves, for that matter.

The Line

Picking the broadest curve through a corner may be obvious by the time
the preceding skills are mastered, but that may not be the best line,
either for safety or because the road surface is poor.  Sometimes
hitting a bump or a "Bott's dot" is better than altering the line,
especially at high speed.  Tires should be large enough to absorb the
entire height of a lane marker without pinching the tube.  This means
that a minimum of a 25mm actual cross section tire is advisable.  At
times, the crown of the road is sufficient to make broadening the
curve, by taking the curve wide, counterproductive because the crown
on the far side gives a restricted lean angle.

Mental Speed

Mental speed is demanded by all of these.  However, being quick does
not guarantee success, because judgment is even more important.  To
not be daring but rather to ride with a margin that leaves a feeling
of comfort rather than high risk, is more important.  Just the same,
do not be blinded by the age old presumption that everyone who rides
faster than I is crazy.  "He descends like a madman!" is one of the
most common descriptions of fast descenders.  The comment generally
means that the speaker is slower.

Braking Heat on Steep Descents

Although tandems with their higher weight to wind drag ratio have this
problem more often, steep mountain roads, especially ones with poor or
no pavement require so much braking that single bicycles blow off
tires from overheating.  For tubulars the problem is not so much over
pressure than rim glue melting as all pressure sensitive glues do with
heating.  As glue softens, tires slip on the hot rim and pile up on
the valve stem.  This is the usual indicator that tubular tire wheels
are too hot.  The next is that the tire arches off the rim in the area
just before the stem.

This is a serious problem both for tubulars and clinchers because most
clincher tires, given enough time on a hot rim will blow off if
inflated to recommended pressure.  Pressure that gives good rolling
performance (hard) while tubulars roll off from lack of adhesion to
the rim.  The faster the travel, the more descending power goes into
wind drag and the better the rims are cooled.  Going slowly does not
help, unless speed is reduced below walking pace.

On steep descents, where rims stay too hot to touch for more than a
minute, reducing tire inflation pressure is a sure remedy.  However,
tires should be re-inflated once the rims cool to normal.  The
blow-off pressure is the same for small and large tires on the same
rim, it being dependent only on the opening of the rim width.  Also,
tires with a smaller air volume become hot faster than larger ones.

There is no way of descending continuously and steeply without
reducing inflation pressure, unless there is an insulator between the
tube and rim of a clincher.  Insulating rim strips are no longer
offered because they were an artifact of dirt roads that often
required riders to descend so slowly that all potential energy went
into the brakes and almost none into wind drag.  These rim strips were
cloth tubes filled with kapok, their insulating purpose being unknown
to most people when they were last offered.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.16  Trackstands
From: Rick Smith 

                How to trackstand on a road bike.
	
	With acknowledgments to my trackstanding mentor,
 	             Neil Bankston.

  Practice, Practice, Practice, Practice, ....

  1. Wear tennis shoes.
  2. Find an open area, like a parking lot that has a slight grade to it.
  3. Put bike in a gear around a 42-18.
  4. Ride around out of the saddle in a counter-clockwise circle, about
     10 feet in diameter.

     Label Notation for imaginary points on the circle:
       'A' is the lowest elevation point on the circle.
       'B' is the 90 degrees counterclockwise from 'A' .
       'C' is the highest elevation point on the circle.
       'D' is the 90 degrees counterclockwise from 'C' .

        C
      /   \
     D     B       Aerial View 
      \   /
        A

   5. Start slowing down, feeling the different sensation as the bike
      transitions between going uphill (B) and downhill (D).
   6. Start trying to go real slowly through the A - B region of the circle.
      This is the region you will use for trackstanding.  Ride the rest of
      the circle as you were in step 5.
   
      The trackstanding position (aerial view again):

	       ---|   /
	------| |----/
           |---     /


      The pedal are in a 3 o'clock - 9 o'clock arrangement (in other
      words, parallel to the ground).  Your left foot is forward, your
      wheel is pointed left.  You are standing and shifting you weight
      to keep balance.  The key to it all is this:

	  If you start to fall left, push on the left pedal to move the
	  bike forward a little and bring you back into balance.

	  If you start to fall right, let up on the pedal and let the
	  bike roll back a little and bring you back into balance.

    7. Each time you roll through the A - B region, try to stop when
       the left pedal is horizontal and forward.  If you start to
       lose your balance, just continue around the circle and try it
       again.

    8. Play with it.  Try doing it in various regions in the circle,
       with various foot position, and various amounts of turn in your
       steering.  Try it on different amounts of slope in the
       pavement.  Try different gears.  What you are shooting for is
       the feel that's involved, and it comes with practice.

The why's of trackstanding:

  Why is road bike specified in the title?
      A true trackstand on a track bike is done differently.  A track
      bike can be pedaled backwards, and doesn't need a hill to
      accomplish the rollback affect.  Track racing trackstands
      are done opposite of what is described.  They take place on the
      C - D region of the circle, with gravity used for the roll
      forward, and back pedaling used for the rollback.  This is so
      that a racer gets the assist from gravity to get going again
      when the competition makes a move.

  Why a gear around 42-18?
      This is a reasonable middle between too small, where you would
      reach the bottom of the stroke on the roll forward, and too big,
      where you couldn't generate the roll forward force needed.

  Why is the circle counter-clockwise?
      Because I assume you are living in an area where travel is done
      on the right side of the road.  When doing trackstands on the road,
      most likely it will be at traffic lights.  Roads are crowned - higher
      in the middle, lower on the shoulders - and you use this crown as
      the uphill portion of the circle (region A-B).  If you are in a
      country where travel is done on the left side of the road,
      please interpret the above aerial views as subterranial.

  Why is this done out of the saddle?
      It's easier!!  It can be done in while seated, but you lose the
      freedom to do weight adjustments with your hips.

  Why is the left crank forward?
      If your right crank was forward, you might bump the front wheel
      with your toe.  Remember the steering is turned so that the back
      of the front wheel is on the right side of the bike.  Some bikes
      have overlap of the region where the wheel can go and your foot
      is.  Even if your current bike doesn't have overlap, it's better
      to learn the technique as described in case you are demonstrating
      your new skill on a bike that does have overlap.

  Why the A - B region?
      It's the easiest.  If you wait till the bike is around 'B', then
      you have to keep more force on the pedal to hold it still.  If
      you are around the 'A' point, there may not be enough slope to
      allow the bike to roll back.

Questions:

  What do I  do if I want to stop on a downhill?
      While there are techniques that can be employed to keep you in
      the pedals, for safety sake I would suggest getting out of the
      pedals and putting your foot down.

Other exercises that help:

    Getting good balance.  Work through this progression:
      1. Stand on your right foot.  Hold this until it feels stable.
      2. Close your eyes.  Hold this until it feels stable.
      3. Go up on your toes.  Hold this until it feels stable.
      4. If you get to here, never mind, your balance is already wonderful,
         else repeat with other foot.

------------------------------

Subject: 9.17  Front Brake Usage
From: John Forester 

   I have dealt for many years with the problem of explaining front
brake use, both to students and to courtrooms, and I have reached
some conclusions, both about the facts and about the superstitions.

   The question was also asked about British law and front brakes.
I'll answer that first because it is easier. British law requires
brakes on both wheels, but it accepts that a fixed gear provides the
required braking action on the rear wheel. I think that the
requirement was based on reliability, not on deceleration. That is,
if the front brake fails, the fixed-gear cyclist can still come to a
stop. 

   In my house (in California) we have three track-racing bikes
converted to road use by adding brakes. Two have only front brakes
while the third has two brakes. We have had no trouble at all, and we
ride them over mild hills. The front-brake-only system won't meet the
normal U.S. state traffic law requirement of being able to skid one
wheel, because that was written for coaster-braked bikes, but it
actually provides twice the deceleration of a rear-wheel-braked bike
and nobody, so far as I know, has ever been prosecuted for using such
a setup. 

   The superstitions about front brake use are numerous. The most
prevalent appears to be that using the front brake without using the
rear brake, or failing to start using the rear brake before using the

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