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Archive-name: motorcycles/how-to-roadrace
Posting-Frequency: monthly, near the 17th
Last-modified: 1996/7/17
Version: 3.18
Expires: Fri, 5 September 1997 00:00:00 GMT

                    How to Become a Motorcycle Roadracer

                                Version 3.18

                                17 July 1997

                    Copyright 1997 (C) Robert Robillard

This is a list of Frequently Asked Questions about becoming a Motorcycle
Roadracer. It is maintained by Duke Robillard, duke@tpsinc.com (that's
me!). Please send me any additions, corrections, clarfications, or
suggestions. In particular, if you find a dead link, please let me
know...it's hard to keep up with stuff as it moves 'round. Also, this FAQ
is very USA-centric, (even Northeastern US-centric) because that's what I
know. Please send me other stuff so I can add it.

A new version of this document usually appears monthly, sometime around the
17th. It was last modified on July 17, 1997, and its travels may have taken
it far from its original home on Usenet. It may now be out-of-date,
particularly if you are looking at a printed copy or one retrieved from a
tertiary archive site or CD-ROM. You can always obtain the most up-to-date
copy on the WWW at http://www.io.com/~duke/newrrfaq.htm. It is also
available by anonymous ftp from sites ftp.eskimo.com, rtfm.mit.edu, or
ftp.uu.net, or by sending the e-mail message "help" to
mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu. Lastly, a draft of the next version is usually on
http://www.io.com/~duke/newfaq.htm. This is the "Beta" version...it's got
stuff I'm working on and it could very well be broken at any given time.
This article was produced for free redistribution. You should not need to
pay anyone for a copy of it.

You may wonder why I think I'm an authority on this subject. Well, I've got
a racing license, which is more than you! :-> Seriously, I'm no authority
at all, but I did spend the last 2 years or so going through the process of
getting started. I got a tremendous amount of help from people, both
on-line and off, and I thought maybe I could do something to help pay back
my karmic debt.

Thanks to everyone on the race list race list (race@micapeak.com,
"subscribe race Your-Name" to listproc@micapeak.com). I stole a lot of this
from your postings. You are the best resource a newbie racer ever had.
Thanks in particular to Hardy Kornfeld, Billy Brownsberger, Paul George,
Laura Hardy, Ed McFarland, Kevin Binsfield, Jon Fleming, Phil Calvin and
the illustrious Gunn family.

Thanks to Dash Weeks and Doug Pinckney for the WWW-ization of this FAQ.
Dash did the initial html conversion, and Doug provided the initial home.
Doug and I are both prouds members of Bare Bones Racing.

Thanks also to Derek Noonburg, Ian Jackson and Steve Summit. I owe a lot of
the meta-info (formatting, disclaimers, etc) to their PowerPC, Linux, and C
FAQs. Lastly, thanks to Carl Paukstis for his Motorcycle Mailing List
Roundup, which is a great thing, and also where I got some addresses.

                                  Contents

  1. Introduction

          1.1 What is Motorcycle Roadracing?
          1.2 What do I Need To Go Racing?
          1.2.1 Where Do I Get Leathers and Such?
          1.3 How Much Money Am I Going to Spend?
          1.4 Am I Going To Wind Up Maimed or Dead?
          1.5 What's a Typical Race Day Like?
          1.6 I'm Still Not Sure I Want to Do This, How Can I Find Out?
          1.7 What About Medical Insurance?

  2. Motorcycles & Race Classes

          2.1 What Bike Should I Use to Go Racing?
          2.2 How Do I Find This Race-Ready Bike?
          2.3 What Class Should I Race in?
          2.4 What's This "YSR" Stuff I Hear About?
          2.5 What's This "Mini-Moto" Stuff I Hear About?
          2.6 What is "Race-prepping"?
          2.7 Do You Insure Race Bikes?

  3. Racing Organizations

          3.1 What's a Racing Organization?
          3.2 What are the US Organizations by Geographical Area?

  4. Racing Schools

          4.1 What's a Racing School?
          4.2 Racing Schools: When, Where, How Much?

  5. Tracks

          5.1 What Tracks are Local to Me & What are They Like?

  6. Other Sources

          6.1 Where Do I Go To Get Other Info?

  7. Miscellaneous Stuff

          7.1 Why do Road Racers Stick Out Their Inside Knee?
          7.2 Where Can I Get Racing Supplies?

1. Introduction

1.1 What is Motorcycle Roadracing?

     Motorcycle Roadracing is the best time you can have with your leathers
     on. Motorcycle Roadracing is better than drugs, sex, and money. This
     is good, since you need to give up all three to do it. Motorcycle
     Roadracing will rip off the back of your head and glue it on
     backwards. Motorcycle Roadracing is indescribable. In short, get thee
     to a track.

     On a more concrete level, Roadracing involves a group of people on
     bikes, racing around an asphalt track with many left and right turns
     and elevation changes. The tracks are like those used in Formula 1 car
     racing, rather than like the ovals used in stock car racing--it's more
     like Watkins Glen than the Indy 500. The motorcycles used range from
     lightly modified street bikes to special purpose million dollar
     factory-built race bikes.

     Roadracing is done on many levels, from local clubs to World
     Championships.

1.2 What do I Need To Go Racing?

     Less than you think. You need a race-prepared motorcycle (see 2.1) and
     protective gear (race leathers, helmet, gloves, and boots). You need a
     racing license (see 3.1 and 3.2). You need a way to get the bike to
     the track (pickup, trailer, or van).

     The gear is vital. New race leathers are somewhere close to $1000, and
     worth every penny. They've got serious weight leather, foam padding,
     and hard plastic body armour. Racing gloves cost up to $100, and boots
     cost up to $300. Helmets are the same as street helmets; $150-$500,
     depending on paint scheme :->

     Don't try to cheap out on any of this stuff. Used is okay (except for
     helmets, of course), but if you buy crummy leathers, you'll pay for
     the difference in ambulance fees and pain.

     As far as getting the race-bike to the track, the cheapest thing to do
     is borrow a pickup from your uncle. Failing that, you can get a
     hitch-and-trailer for your Big American Car or Yuppie Sport Utility
     Vehicle for between $500 and $1000, depending on quality, new or used,
     weight rating, etc.

     Personally, I think a van is the best solution, because it keeps the
     bike out of the rain, is easier to drive than a car & trailer, holds a
     lot of tools and spares, and you can sleep in it. I initially bought a
     hitch-and-trailer, 'cause it was cheaper, and then I upgraded to a
     van.

     Don't ride your bike to the track, because then when you wad it up in
     turn 6, you won't be able to get it home.

1.2.1 Where Do I Get Leathers and Such?

     Some gear companies commonly used by racers:

        o AGV. Frederick, MD 21701, 800-950-9006. They have a sponsorship
          program for anyone with a license, and inexpensive leathers. Cool
          boots and gloves, too. And the Max Biaggi Replica Helmet...Yum.
          Max is cool.

        o Vanson Leathers, 617-344-5444, 213 Turnpike St Stoughton, MA. I
          bought my leathers here--they're great people to deal with and
          the leathers are primo.

        o Syed Leathers, 11349 S. Orange Blossom Trail, Orlando, FL. (800)
          486-6635, (407) 857-SYED, fax (407) 857-9233.

        o Z Custom Leathers, Huntington Beach, CA (714) 890-5721

        o Dinar Leathers, Lebanon, NJ (908) 236-0512, fax (908) 236-0513

        o Dainese. No direct contact info (they're Italian), but you can
          get them at lots of shops. You might try MOTORACE, P.O. Box 861,
          Wilbraham, MA 01095. Tel: 800-628-4040, Fax: 413-731-8999,
          E.Mail: MOTORACE1@aol.com

        o Alpinstars. Boots of Champions.

        o Held. Gloves of Asphalt Resistance.

1.3 How Much Money Am I Going to Spend?

     You can do the first year for less than $6000, including buying a used
     bike and protective gear, spares, and a trailer set-up. After that, it
     should be cheaper, until you need a new bike, or start messing with
     your engine. If you buy a bike in need of a lot of repair, you may
     wind up spending more than that.

     I've found a weekend at the races typically runs less than $300,
     including gas, oil, entrance fees, food, etc. You can do it cheaper,
     you can do it more expensive. If you have a big bike, you'll need to
     replace tires a lot (maybe every weekend), but on little ones, you can
     get a number weekends out of them.

1.4 Am I Going To Wind Up Maimed or Dead?

     Well, all the championship level racers are maimed to a certain
     extent. Doug Polen has no toes on one foot, Mick Doohan's right ankle
     doesn't bend, and Wayne Rainey is paralysed from the waist down. On
     the other hand, I've met a lot of expert club racers who seem pretty
     much okay.

     You are going to crash, and you are going to break bones. Your
     collarbones are goners. Fingers, handbones, wristbones, footbones, and
     anklebones are also likely to get broken.

     However, serious injury and death are not very common. Most crashes
     involve sliding to a stop, getting up, and running to hit your kill
     switch. Racers like to claim the track is safer than the street,
     because there are no Volvos to turn left in front of you. And when you
     do crash, there's an ambulance a few minutes away, with the engine
     running.

     But there's just no getting around the fact that this is a dangerous
     sport. If that bothers you a lot, maybe you should take the advice of
     a friend of mine, who suggested I try chess instead. :-> Remember: "It
     ain't a sport if it can't kill you."

1.5 What's a Typical Race Day Like?

     At six am, you're awakened by the guy in the pit to your left, working
     on the jetting of his 2 stroke (WWWINNNNNGG). You didn't get to sleep
     until 1am, because Otis The Wonder Dog (staying in the pit to your
     right) was barking at the TV plugged into the Honda generator. You try
     to wake up your pit crew, stumble to registration and give away money,
     eat a bagel as you push your bike through technical inspection, and
     then miss your first practice because you forgot to safety wire your
     oil drain bolt after you changed the oil at 3am on Thursday night.

     Finally, you get out in practice, immediately find the limit of
     traction, spend two hours and $100 at the on-track vendors getting
     your handlebars fixed, and then blow the start of your Supersport
     race. But it's all worthwhile when you stuff that guy on the new ZX-6R
     who's fast down the straights but can't keep in front of you in the
     carousel.

     That's a little embelished, (could you tell?) but it covers a lot of
     what goes on. Many racers camp at the track (cheaper than motels, less
     packing and unpacking, less distance to travel in the morning). Race
     days start early, with a line for the showers forming by 7.

     Whenever you go racing, you should always bring along somebody (your
     "crew") to help out. His main job is driving the truck home if you
     break your ankle, but he can also take lap times and help fix broken
     stuff.

     You have to register for each race, and there's a fee for each (NE CCS
     is $50 a race, for instance). Before you can get on the track (and
     after crashes) you have to go through technical inspection. There are
     generally several practices each day, divided up by speed, experience,
     and/or class of bike.

     If you crash, you and your crew haul the bike bike to the pit, fix it
     (there are usually vendors at the track, eager to sell brake levers
     and to mount tires), go through tech. again, and get back out.

     And the best feeling in the world is watching someone pull away on the
     straight, and then reeling him back in in the twisty stuff.

1.6 I'm Still Not Sure I Want to Do This, How Can I Find Out?

     One way to try to decide whether or not roadracing is for you is to
     try out one of the many track classes, like Reg Pridmore's CLASS, dp
     Safety School, TrackRiders, Keith Code's California Superbike School,
     the Team Suzuki Endurance Advanced Riding School, Ed Bargy's Real Race
     School, or the MARRC, Penguin, or WERA Roadracing Schools. Each of
     these organizations offer track time at minimal expense (you can use
     your street bike, or sometimes rent a race bike) and teach riding
     techniques valid for all speeds and all types of riding. See 4.1 for
     more info on these.

     There are a number of on-line racers who blame their current
     obsessions on attending CLASS (805-933-9936).

     Another excellent idea is to go to the races a couple of times and
     hang out in the pits. If you can find a racer who might need crew,
     volunteer to go along and help. This is the best way to learn the
     routine. This sounds self evident, but there are many people who want
     to start racing without having ever been into the pits; they've just
     seen it on TV or from the grandstand.

     Lastly, you should volunteer to be a corner-worker at your local
     track. Corner Workers are the rodeo clowns of Road Racing. They hang
     out near the crash points on corners, and when someone goes down, they
     run out to get the racer and his bike out of harm's way, and out of
     the way of the rest of the race. They're also in charge of the
     signalling flags that get waved when something goes wrong, and on
     getting the oil off the track. Without them, we'd all be sitting home
     wishing we could go racing.

     If you go to the track and say "I'd like to corner work" they'll be
     delighted to have you, trust me. You get to see the racing up close
     (only the racers get better seats), meet racers, learn the track and
     rules, etc. At Loudon and Bridgehampton, you even get paid for
     working, and get free lunch.

     Cornerworking is also a good suggestion for people who are concerned
     about the possibility of injury. There is nothing like spending a day
     watching people get back on their bikes after crashing.

     A couple of good cornerwork organizations are the US Marshalls, which
     runs the safety crew at Loudon and Bridgehampton, and MARRC, which
     does the hard work at Summit Point.

1.7 What About Medical Insurance?

     Some medical polices cover you for track injuries, and some don't.
     Call your insurance company and find out. If you're not covered,
     you'll need to get a special policy. The American Motorcycle
     Association (AMA) has a policy called ARMOR that covers you in AMA
     sanctioned events. Call the AMA to see if your series is sanctioned.
     AHRMA, LRRS (the Northeast CCS region) and the Great Lakes Road Racing
     Associated (GLRRA) are sanctioned.

     Don't race without medical insurance. If you think an aftermarket
     shock is expensive, wait till you price those external fixators for
     broken bones. Seriously, a big racing injury can easily bankrupt you.

CONTENTS

2. Motorcycles & Race Classes

2.1 What Bike Should I Use to Go Racing?

     The conventional wisdom is that you should start on small bikes, and
     learn to ride before you get enough horsepower to really hurt
     yourself. In the US, the most popular starter racing bikes are the
     Kawasaki EX-500, the Yamaha FZR 400, the Honda Hawk GT-650, and Your
     Current Street Bike.

        o Kawasaki EX-500

          Made from 1987-1997, this is a 500cc parallel twin with a cradle
          frame. You can find race prepped specimens for under $2000. It's
          not the best handling of these bikes, but it's cheap and fine for
          starters. As a little twin, it's legal for lots of classes.
          There's a mailing list filled with racers: send 'SUBSINGLE' in
          the body of the message to EX500-request@lists.best.com. There's
          also a Home Page (http://www.sport-twin.com/EX500Hm.shtml) with a
          FAQ and a lot of good stuff.

        o Yamaha FZR 400

          Imported to the US from 1988-1990, this is a 400cc inline four,
          with an aluminum "Deltabox" twin-spar frame. The 1990 model had
          twin front brake calipers and a Deltabox swingarm. Race ready
          versions are usually close to $3000. This is probably the best of
          the three, but it also costs the most. I bought this one, because
          I didn't want to worry about whether the problem was me or the
          bike; with the FZR, I know it's me. There's a mailing list for
          this bike also: send "subscribe fzr-400 your-address" in the body
          of a message to majordomo@openix.com

        o Honda Hawk GT 650

          Made from 1988-1990, this is a 650cc V-twin, with a twin-spar
          frame. Race ready versions are around $2500. The engine is a
          little weak in stock form, but can really breath fire when worked
          on. As a little twin, it's legal for lots of classes. There's a
          mailing list for this bike also: send "subscribe hawkgt-l your
          real name" in the body of a message to
          listserv@listserv.hawkgt.com

        o Your Current Street Bike

          This bike has one obvious advantage: it's nearly free (you do
          have to spend some money race prepping it). A lot of people start
          on their 600 Sportbikes; in my region, the Amateur 600cc grids
          are completely packed. The disadvantage of this bike is that when
          you wreck it, you've got no street bike. An even worse problem
          would be wrecking it on the street and having no race bike! In
          addition, it's a royal pain to rip all the street stuff (lights,
          signals, etc) off every weekend, and when your suspension is set
          up correctly for the track, it's unrideable on the street. A
          final warning: some organizations don't let novices on anything
          bigger than a 750.

     A good way to pick a bike is to go to your local track, hang out in
     the pits, talk to people your own age who are smiling, find out what
     they are riding and why. Look at how many bikes are in each class, and
     how the racing is going. Some classes are just for nut cases (I would
     never say that about any particular class, like, oh, say, the Amateur
     600's). Other classes have an air or respect for their fellow riders.

     Some people start in vintage racing; it's not just for retired
     roadracers. A good starter bike is a CB350 Honda. They are cheap, and
     in the USCRA there are two classes for them, one for stock motors and
     one for modifed motors. The USCRA also has a class for the RD 350
     Yamaha. One of the main advantages of vintage roadracing is that it is
     a fixed target. Once you sort out a machine you can race it year after
     year; there are no new Vintage bikes coming out. Most clubs rules are
     very stable and do not allow new technology to creep into the classes.

     No matter what bike you race, it's simplier if you buy a bike that's
     already being raced in the class you're going to join--that way all
     the grunt work of race-prepping has been done. And stay as close to
     stock as you can; you need to spend the first season learning to race,
     not working on your porting.

2.2 How Do I Find This Race-Ready Bike?

     The best ways are

       1. hang around the pits at your local racetrack (see 5.1) and look
          for "For Sale" signs,

       2. check the classifieds in Cycle News, Roadracing World, or
          American Roadracing (see 6.1),

       3. check around the newsgroup and mailing list (see 6.1)

2.3 What Class Should I Race In?

     Most organizations have different racing classes divided up by engine
     displacement, 2-stroke vs 4-stroke, number of cylinders, and how much
     magic has been performed on the bike. Take CCS, for instance (see
     3.2). It has a couple of "Lightweight" classes for production-based
     street bikes. These classes allow 4 stroke bikes with 4 cylinders up
     to 400cc or 4 stroke twins up to 650cc. "Lightweight Supersport" is
     for mildly altered bikes (new pipes, jetting and suspensions) and
     "Lightweight Superbike" is for bikes with titanium con-rods and such.
     (The details of what's legal and what's not are more complicated, but
     that's the general idea.) The grids for these classes are filled with
     the three bikes mentioned in 2.1

     You're usually allowed to "race up a class," which means you can ride
     a 600cc bike in the 750cc class. On some tight, twisty tracks, you
     might not even be at much of a disadvantage. At the AMA national at
     Loudon, for instance, there's usually a 600 in the top ten of the 750
     Supersport races. And in the beginner classes, slow bikes with fast
     riders beat fast bikes with slow riders all the time.

     It's a good idea to start in relatively slow, lightweight classes. If
     you take your CBR900RR to the track to learn on, odds are you're going
     to get lapped an awful lot, fall down all the time, and might even be
     a danger to the more experienced racers. In fact, some organizations
     don't let novices on anything bigger than a 750. My race school
     instructor explained this decision: "It was just getting too bloody."

2.4 What's this "YSR" stuff I Hear About?

     Another Bike/Class option is to race YSRs. The Yamaha YSR is a 50cc or
     80cc two stroke that looks like a sport bike. They are raced in
     parking lots, on go cart tracks, and on regular race tracks.

     YSR racing isn't as high speed as full size racing, but it is a
     fantastic alternative for people who can't ante up the entrance fee
     for big-time racing, or are not prepared (due to family, etc) to risk
     life and limb for the pursuit of adrenaline.

     YSR's also provide a semi-safe place to hone up racing skills (most of
     them are directly transferrable) before stepping up to lightweights.
     Crashes are not usually serious, so racers can get used to falling
     off.

     There are mini-racing (as it's also called) group around North
     America--check the YSR 50 Racing page for more details; they've got
     addresses and numbers for groups around the continent. You can also
     check ???

2.5 What's This "Mini-Moto" Stuff I Hear About?

     Mini-Motos are little miniature motorcycles--like 8 inches high, 3
     feet long, and 50lbs. They've got little 2-stroke engines, no
     suspension, tires that feel like real race tires, and cost $1500.
     People race them in parking lots and sometimes on go-kart tracks.
     Supposedly, they'll do 60mph, given a long enough run. It's something
     to see.

2.6 What is "Race-Prepping"?

     "Race-prepping" is getting your bike ready to race. If you've bought a
     bike that's already been racing, race-prepping is all the grunt work
     you don't have to do. It means stripping off all the street stuff
     (lights, signals, kickstands, etc), replacing the radiator coolent
     with water, safety-wiring anything you wouldn't want to come loose at
     speed, putting on number plates, adding a steering damper, etc.

     "Safety-wiring" is drilling little holes through the heads of bolts
     that hold on important stuff, running wire through those holes, and
     then attaching the wire to some fixed point, or to another bolt. This
     makes it impossible for the bolt to turn, no matter how much it
     vibrates and bounces. Obvious targets for safety wiring are oil drain
     plugs, fork oil drains, the remote shock reservoir (mine fell off
     once) and brake caliper bolts.

     It is really helpful to have someone show you how and what to safety
     wire; the race rulebooks are not very clear or complete. When you go
     to the track to hang around before becoming a racer, you can check
     this out, perhaps asking someone for hints and help. Most racers are
     very helpful about this kind of thing, and love to talk about their
     bikes. (Just don't catch them 10 minutes before their next race.)

     Every organization has its own specific rules about race-prepping.
     You'll find them in the rulebooks (see 6.1 and 3.2).

2.7 Do You Insure Race Bikes?

     No.

     That's a little extreme, but not much. Some people do get special
     theft insurance if the bike is really valuable (like a 916 or RC45).
     There's no such thing as liabilty insurance on the racetrack. If
     somebody hits you, you might be able to yell at him, but he's not
     paying to fix your bike. And for God's sake, don't get a lawyer and
     sue him--that will be the end of amateur racing. There's no such thing
     as collision insurance either. If you slide your bike into the wall,
     you buy the new front end yourself.

CONTENTS

3. Racing Organizations

3.1 What's a Racing Organization?

     A Racing Organization is a group that sanctions races. They set up the
     weekends, officiate, keep the records, and take your money. They also
     issue racing licenses.

     In the US, The Western Eastern Roadracing Association (WERA) and the
     Championship Cup Series (CCS) are nation-wide organizations, with
     regional series spread across the country. No matter where you live,
     you can race under one of these two. If you do really well in your
     region, you can go to the Grand National Final (WERA, Road Atlanta) or
     the Race of Champions (CCS, Daytona) at the end of the season.

     Another national organization is American Historic Racing Motorcycle
     Association (AHRMA), which runs vintage racing and "alternative types
     of modern roadracing that otherwise would not receive the exposure
     they deserve. These include Sound of Singles (SOS), Battle of Twins
     (BOT), and the Sound of Thunder Series." These are very cool races to
     watch, because they've got bikes you don't see anywhere else, like
     Brittens and Saxon-framed three cylinder modern Triumphs.

     In addition, there are a lot of local organizations, some of which are
     associated with WERA and/or CSS, and some of which are independent.

     The 1997 schedules for a lot of these organizations are on
     http://www.io.com/~duke/mr97dates.htm

3.2 What are the US Organizations by Geographical Area?

     USA (Nationwide):

          Western Eastern Roadracing Association (WERA), 3446 Bells Ferry
          Rd., PO Box 440549, Kennesaw, GA 30144. Phone: 770-924-8404, Fax:
          770-924-1277, werahq@aol.com. See http://www.wera.com. for the
          1997 Rules and Schedules.

          Championship Cup Series (CCS), 704-684-4297. See The Ludwig
          Motorsports page (http://fly.hiwaay.net/~pjludwig) for the 1997
          Rules.

          American Historic Racing Motorcycle Association (AHRMA), PO Box
          882, Wausau, WI 54402-08822, 715-842-9699, fax: 715-842-9545. See
          http://www.cp.duluth.mn.us/ahrma/ for membership information and
          schedules.

     Canada (Nationwide):

          Association Sportive Motocycliste (ASM), 322 Raymond Casgrain,
          Laval, QC, H7N 5N8. Phone: (514) 663-2431, fax: (514)663-5816.

     Northeast US:

          CCS Northest Region. Loudon RoadRacing Series (LRRS) and GP/Pro
          is the local organization that runs the the CCS NE series. They
          also have their own classes. Races take place at New Hampshire
          International Speedway, Loudon, NH and Bridgehampton Race
          Circuit, Long Island, NY. PO Box 73, West Hurley, NY 12491-0073.
          914-679-5547.

          US Classic Racing Association (USCRA). Vintage racing at Loudon
          (NHIS), Atlantic Motorsport Park, Nova Scotia, Canada, Mosport
          Park, Canada and Summit Point Raceway in West Virginia. Rules:
          c/o Robert Coy, 441 Athol Road, Richmond, NH 03470. phone
          603-239-6778, fax 603-239-7343.
          http://kyalami.chess.cornell.edu/uscra.html. Membership: c/o
          Charlie Seymour, PO BOX 473, Sanbornville, NH 03872.
          603-522-3104. $15 a year and you must be a AMA member Newsletter:
          Richard Peterson Jr., 1251 Middle Road, East Greenwich, RI 02818.
          mtpracin@aol.com.

     Eastern Canada:

          Association Sportive Motocycliste (ASM), Ontario: 905-522-5705?
          Quebec: (514) 582-4051? Toronto: 416-635-9763?

          Canadian Motorcycle Association, 902-835-3300.

          RACE Super Series, 613-966-4882

          US Classic Racing Association (USCRA). See Northeast US.

          AM Canadian Racing Association (AMCRA). Based at Atlantic
          Motorsport Park (AMP), Shubenacadie, Nova Scotia.

     Mid-Atlantic US:

          CCS MidAtlantic Region

          WERA Mid-Atlantic Region

          Mid-Atlantic Road Racing Club (MARRC), 703 435-1223. Provides
          safety crew for WERA and CCS regional races, and runs a school
          and open practice days at Summit Point, WV.

     Southeast US:

          CCS Southeast Region

          CCS Florida Region (Talladega,)

          Southeastern Sportbike Association (SSA). runs a school and open
          practice days at Roebling and Talladega. se-sport@mindspring.com

     Northern US:

          WERA NorthCentral Region

          CCS Great Lakes Region

          Central Roadracing Association (CRA), 612-3324.
          http://www.cra-mn.org

          Great Lakes Road Racing Association (GLRRA). call Eric Knacke at
          (616) 458-5888. http://miso.wwa.com/~312/GLRRA/GLRRA.html

     Mid West US:

          WERA MidCentral Region.

          Central Motorcycle Racing Association (CMRA): local organization
          that's the WERA affiliate. (800) 423-8736,
          http://www.flash.net/~cmra, PO Box 156, Richmond, Texas 77406.

          CCS Mid West Region.

          Great Lakes Road Racing Association (GLRRA). call Eric Knacke at
          (616) 458-5888. http://miso.wwa.com/~312/GLRRA/GLRRA.html

          CCS Great Plains Region.

          Midwest Cafe Racing Association 314-771-2531

     Mid West Canada:

          Manitoba Roadracing Association, 204-775-9473

          Calgary Motorcycle Roadracing Association, 403-280-3144

     Western US:

          CCS Great Plains Region

          WERA MidCentral Region

          Motorcycle Roadracing Association (MRA), PO Box 40187, Denver,
          Colorado 80204, 303-530-5678, http://www.mra-racing.org/. Races
          at Second Creek Raceway, Pueblo Motorsports Park, Moutain View
          Motorsports Park, Stapleton Motorsports Park, the new Pikes Peak
          International Raceway, and on the streets Steamboat Springs (I
          don't know anywhere else west of Ireland where you can race on a
          real street course!).

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