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Last-modified: 01/12/31
Version: 6.51
  [1]alt.locksmithing answers to Frequently Asked Questions
   This FAQ does not attempt to teach you locksmithing, just to answer
   simple questions, give you some hints on getting started, and point
   you to sources of information. Also included is a glossary of common
   terms. The Appendix covers many supply places, books and tapes.
   This FAQ is posted monthly to the USENET groups [2]"alt.locksmithing",
   [3]"alt.answers", and [4]"news.answers". The latest version of the FAQ
   should be available from the USENET FTP archives on "" in
   directory "/pub/usenet/alt.locksmithing" and can be read at (You'll have to click on the "alt" Hierarchy, and
   then select this faq by clicking. You can also retrieve this FAQ by
   email; send mail to "" with "send
   usenet/alt.locksmithing/*" contained in the BODY of the message.
   A hypertext version of this FAQ may be accessed at on the
   World Wide Web using
   Version 6.51 Last changed 12/31/01
Questions Answered:

    0. [5]Will people on this newsgroup give me information about picking
       locks, etc.?
    1. [6]Where can I get a lock pick set?
    2. [7]How can I make my own picks and tension wrenches?
    3. [8]Is it legal to carry lock picks?
    4. [9]Where can I get the "MIT Guide to Picking Locks"?
          + [10]I can't print the Guide!
    5. [11]What books can I get on locksmithing?
    6. [12]What are "pick guns" or "automatic pickers" and do they work?
    7. [13]How do I open a Kryptonite lock?
    8. [14]Can the Club be picked? Is the Club any good?
    9. [15]How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?
   10. [16]Do Skeleton Keys Exist?
   11. [17]Should I bother with high security ("pick proof") locks and
       other security enhancements for my home?
   12. [18]What should I do after I read a book?
   13. [19]How do I continue learning about locksmithing?
   14. [20]How do I learn the locksmithing trade?
   15. [21]How do I learn more about Master Keying?
   16. [22]How do Simplex pushbutton locks work?
   17. [23]Is there a formula that can find the combination of a Master
   18. [24]Can the combination of a Master Lock be found though
   19. [25]What is the "shear line".
   20. [26]What is "impressioning"?
   21. [27]What is a code? What is a codebook?
   22. [28]How do I open a car with a Slim Jim?
   23. [29]What is a jiggler key?
   24. [30]Is there an ethical dimension to locksmithing?
   25. [31]I have a safe without the combination - how do I open it?
   26. [32]How do I change the combination of a safe?
   27. [33]How do I disassemble a Kwikset key in knob entry set?
   28. [34]Why are posts of binaries (pictures) against the consensus
       rules of this
   29. [35]Should my business be a shop or a mobile unit (truck)? 
          + [36]Other online locksmithing related resources
          + [37]Glossary
          + [38]Appendix of sources, books, videotapes.
          + [39]Information for collectors.
          + [40]Workshop contents.
          + [41]Credit & Thanks
  0. Will people on this newsgroup give me information about picking locks,
       Yes and No. These is a serious debate, based on serious
       principles. Most experienced people here are quite willing to
       discuss the basics of lock construction and operation. Few (if
       any) are willing to give specific answers regarding opening a
       particular lock or safe - without knowing the asker or having
       other evidence that the inquiry is legitimate.
       Another balancing act regards the general effect of information.
       As Joe K. put it succinctly, "On one side there are the idealists
       who believe that even weak security should not be further
       compromised without good reason; on the other there are those who
       believe that weak locks should be forced out of the market.
       There's never going to be agreement here... can we just agree that
       reasonable people can disagree, and have done with it?"
       People have contrasted locksmithing "security by obscurity" with
       practice in the software arena (in which it has generally been
       considered to be misguided and therefore be bad for society.)
       Exposing flaws as a social good breaks down when there are
       hundreds of thousands of current owners of the product who don't
       know that the flaw has been exposed. Even if they find out, there
       is another big difference. This is the cost of correcting the flaw
       (upgrading.) Installing the patches on your copy of software takes
       a bit of effort, but you don't have to throw out and purchase a
       new physical product (such as a lock.) The manufacturer of the
       lock is pretty certain not to make it available for free.
       Basically you have to buy a new item and have it replaced, and
       this adversly impacts users, many of whom do not have the budget
       to correct the flaw. Therefore publishing the security flaw costs
       users *much* more for a lock than for a piece of software.
       And the fact is that a nominally flawed product _does_ provide
       adequate security against the unmotivated and ignorant who are the
       primary folks attacking physical security systems (as opposed to
       the motivated and clueful who attack electronic security and can
       do it from a distance without physical presence).
  1. Where can I get a lock pick set?
       Try a locksmith supply house. Look under "Locksmiths' Equipment &
       Supplies" in the Yellow Pages. Your locality, State or the company
       may have requirements, such as having to prove you are a locksmith
       or showing a drivers license; call and find out. Look for mail
       order houses in the Appendix. You can also check on the Web for
  2. How can I make my own picks and tension wrenches?
       You can file or (more easily) grind picks out of spring steel. It
       is best to use spring steel - sources include hacksaw blades,
       piano (music) wire, clock springs, street sweeper bristles (which
       can be found along the street after the sweeper has passed), metal
       from a plumbers "snake", etc. In a pinch safety pin steel, or even
       a bobby pin (much worse) can be used. When grinding, keep the
       steel from getting so hot as to anneal (soften) it. You may have
       to re-harden/re-temper it. (See a book on knife making,
       gunsmithing, or machine shop practice for a discussion on heat
       treating steel. Spring steel is hardened and then tempered/drawn
       so as to retain some hardness and to get quite a bit of
       flexibility.) Some people prefer a rigid tension wrench and just
       bend a small screwdriver for this, but many prefer a slightly
       flexible wrench and use spring steel.
       The "MIT Guide to Picking Locks" and the "Eddie The Wire" books
       (see below) cover making these tools. There are many places you
       can buy picks and tension wrenches. See the appendix.
       Steve Haehnichen  maintained an archive of GIF
       and JPEG images of picks located at
       [42] which are useful guides for
       those making their own picks. But this link isn't working right
       now - this is being checked.
       Another [43]archive has some pickes illustrated, but does not show
       the rake pick.
  3. Is it legal to carry lock picks?
       This depends on where you are. In the U.S. the common case seems
       to be that it is legal to carry potential "burglar tools" such as
       keys, picks, crowbars, jacks, bricks, etc., but use of such tools
       to commit a crime is a crime in itself. Call your local library,
       district attorney, police department, or your own attorney to be
       sure. Possession of potential "burglar tools" can be be used as
       evidence against you if you are found in incriminating
       circumstances. An example of a state law can be found in the
       Viginia State Code: Section 18.2-94 _Possession of burglarious
       tools, etc._ "If any person have in his possession any tools,
       implements or outfit, with intent to commit burglary, robbery or
       larceny, upon conviction thereof he shall be guilty of a Class 5
       Note that the prosecution has to prove "intent". However, the law
       continues: "The possession of such burglarious tools, implements
       or outfit by any person other than a licensed dealer, shall be
       prima facie evidence of an intent to commit burglary, robbery or
       larceny." This means that the possessor can have a bit of an
       uphill battle and has to convince the jury that this 'prima facie
       evidence' is misleading.
       Places where it *is* illegal to carry lock picks:
       The District of Columbia, New York State and Illinois. New Jersey
       law appears to make these illegal if they can work motor vehicle
       locks. There may be many other places as well (such as Canada,
       Maryland and California.) It can be hard to tell since the
       relevant laws can be dealing with burglary, motor vehicles or
       locksmith regulation, etc. This emphasizes the importance of
       finding out for *your* area - and determining the applicability to
       *your* circumstances (e.g., locksmith, full or part-time), repo
       worker, building maintenance worker, ...
  4. Where can I get the [44]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks"?
       The author of the [45]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks", "Ted the
       Tool", has posted a PostScript(TM) version of the Guide which can
       be retrieved via ftp from:
       You will need a PostScript printer or previewer to view this file.
       Dave Ferret  scanned/typed in a version of the
       Guide, it is a file of the text of the Guide and a collection of
       GIFs of the diagrams. This can be found in ZIP and tar format in:
       A Web version can be found at [46]The Document Which Was Formerly
       Called the MIT Guide
       Mattias Wingstedt  has converted the Guide to
       HTML and made it available on the Web at
       Ken Waldron  has converted the Guide to MS
       Word format and it can be retrieved via ftp from:
       Since this is a zipped file, you will need to set ftp to binary
       mode and then unzip it after retrieving it. You may want to start
       by retrieving the small mitguideMSE.README file first.
  4b. I can't print the Guide!
       Try deleting the two lines that read:
       statusdict /lettertray known {statusdict begin lettertray end} if
  5. What books can I get on locksmithing?
       Bill Phillips has written a number of locksmithing books. For the
       beginning or aspiring locksmith here is an excellent and practical
       introduction and overview:
       McGraw-Hill 2000 ISBN 0-07-134436-5
       paperbound 7 1/2" x 9", 550 pages, $34.95
       An excellent encyclopedic reference:
       The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 4th ed.
       McGraw-Hill, Inc. 1995 ISBN 0-07-049866-0 $24.95 (Paper) USA
       and another one:
       Professional Locksmithing Techniques, 2nd Edition
       TAB Books/McGraw-Hill 1996
       ISBN 0-07-049867-9 (Paper) $36.95 (Paper)
       also many people think highly of:
       Eddie The Wire: How to Make Your Own Professional Lock Tools
       "Eddie The Wire" Loompanics Unlimited
       ISBN 0-685-39143-4 4 Volumes $20
       Your local book store should be able to order these for you. You
       can find other titles under "Locksmithing" in the Books In Print
       Subject Index, which any decent bookstore should have. Also see
       the Appendix.
  6. What are "pick guns" or "automatic pickers" and do they work?
       A "pick gun" is a manual or powered device that uses a vibrating
       pin to try to bounce the pin tumblers so there are spaces at the
       shear line so that the plug can rotate. Some kind of turning
       pressure is also needed - either during or a split second after
       the click. The MIT Guide has some discussion of this. Pick guns
       are not a panacea, and aren't always effective although some
       people find them to work extremely well. The net seems to feel
       that these are no substitute for a little skill with a pick and
       learning how locks work. The electrically powered ones are
       considerably more expensive, and many question whether they are
       worth the cost. Pick guns should not be used on wafer tumbler
       locks as they will not pick the lock and can damage the wafers and
       The following "ascii art" may make this easier to understand:

                  /   <-- Spring, pushes pins down.
         ------- | | -------   <-- Shear line, where the
                 |_|               plug meets the cylinder.
                 | |

                  ^   <-- Keyway
            Pick gun delivers
            sharp blow to bottom

With luck, right after the gun delivers its blow:

                 | |  <-- Top pin thrown up by blow.

          --------------------   <-- Shear line, where the
                                     plug meets the cylinder.
                 | |  <-- Bottom pin stays in place.

Three "pick gun" type implements described in _PICK GUNS Lock Picking
for Spies, Cops and Locksmiths_ by John Minnery:

The simple clicker, made from a metal clothes hanger:

                       Thumb presses here,
                       then releases with a snap.
         / _____                |   |
        / /     \               |   |
        | |     |               |   |              <--- Pins go here, where
        \ \-----/---------------|---------------        they will receive
         \_____/                \   /     ^             the force of the
                                 \_/      |             "click".
            ^                             |
            |                     ^  Flatten needle with hammer,
            |                     |  shorten height with file.
     Wrap around something        |  This part goes into
     like a broom handle.         |  the lock under the pins.
                            This part imparts
                            force to the needle
                            which imparts force
                            to the pins.

Clothespin Clicker:
      \                  _  --------------| <-- Thin strip of metal placed
       -----------/-\___/ \_|                   in groove cut in top of
             -----\-/   \_/ |                   clothespin.

          Lower part shortened to make operation easier.
          Finger pulls up here, and then releases.  Force
          is transfered to needle, and then pins.

Spring Pick Gun:

      ____________________     __
     /                    \   /  \
     |                     | /   |
     |                     | |   |
     |                     | |   |
     \__                   | |   |                   Needle.  This part
        \       __________ | |  _______________ <--  transfers force to
        |      /           | |   |                   pins.  Hammer thin,
        |      |           \_| _/                    and file down height.
        |      |             |
        |      |             |  <-- Trigger.  Forefinger pulls here, and
        |      |             |    releases with a snap.
        |      |             \
        |      |
        |  __  |
        | /  \ |
        |\    ||  <-- Wrap around something
        \_\___/|      like a broom handle.

  7. How do I open a Kryptonite lock?

    Easiest: If you registered your lock, call or write Kryptonite
    for a new key.  Or call a local locksmith, they should be able to
    pick and re-key the lock for you.

    Easy:  Get a car jack and jack it apart.  Careful, otherwise it is
    very possible that you'll damage the bike.

    Easy:  Use a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool to cut the lock at
    the hole in the shackle (where there is the least to cut.)

    Harder: If it doesn't have the newer brass jacket, peel back
    the plastic coating on the key end, drill out the pin that
    holds in the cylinder, remove the cylinder, open.

    Hardest: Chill the metal of the "U" with liquid Nitrogen or
    Freon, smash with hammer.  While this is a "well known" method,
    it may be an urban legend.

  8. Can the Club be picked? Is the Club any good?

Stan Schwarz  writes:

     I used to have a "Club", purchased on the recommendation of a
     coworker. The first time I tried picking it, it took me
     approximately 30 seconds, using the cap of a Papermate Flexgrip pen
     for tension, and a bent jumbo paperclip to rake the pins. With
     practice, I was able to reliably pick every "Club" I encountered in
     5-30 seconds using these tools.

  However, it doesn't really matter, no car thief is going to pick it,
they are going to cut the soft plastic steering wheel with a hacksaw
or bolt cutters and slip the Club off.

  It has also been claimed that the Club can be broken if you grab it
with both hands, put your feet on the dashboard, and push with your
legs and pull with your arms as hard as you can.  Be sure to wear

  The Club is useful as a deterrent, a car thief may pass over your
car for something easier.  But if a thief wants your car, the Club
will not stop him.  An alarm with an ignition kill and a theft
recovery system like LoJack is a better, but more expensive, option.

  9. How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?

  Some locksmiths will take the Nike approach and "Just Do It".  Some
will even stamp _"DO NOT DUPLICATE"_ on the copy for
you.  If that doesn't work, label the key by sticking some tape on the
_"DO NOT DUPLICATE"_ stamp and try again.  Many
locksmiths aren't 'fooled' by the tape, but many key-cutting clerks
don't care.

  10. Do Skeleton Keys Exists?

  "Skeleton Keys" are keys ground to avoid the wards in warded locks.
There is no analog with modern pin tumbler locks.  Master keys may
open a large set of locks, but this is designed in when the locks are
'pinned' with master pins.

  11. Should I bother with high security ("pick proof") locks and other
  security enhancements for my home?

   Why not?  If you are installing locks, the better quality ones are
not much more expensive, and are physically more secure (e.g., have
hardened inserts to protect against drilling.)  However, note that
protection against picking doesn't add a large amount to your security
since burglars almost always go the brute force route.  Regardless,
you should have a deadbolt, and check your window security.

  An excellent project is to do a security survey of your own
premises.  Look at the entire problem - consider lighting and visibility,
as well as the locks, doors and windows.  Ask your insurance agent, you
may be eligible for a premium reduction if you make a few changes in
your home such as a) adding deadbolt locks, and  b) installing smoke
detectors and fire extinguishers.

  12. What should I do after I read a book?

  After some reading, then the next thing is some experience.  Go to
K-Mart, buy a deadbolt lock for around $10, and take the entire thing
apart (you'll need tools like screwdrivers, and perhaps a pair of
pliers) to see how a pin tumbler lock works.  K-Mart carries a clone
of the Kwikset deadbolt which is made to be very easy to take apart.
(Key-in-knob locksets are both more expensive and harder to take

  You then can practice picking this lock by leaving out all but one
stack of pins.  This will be exceedingly easy to pick, and will mostly
provide experience in manipulating the pick and tension wrench.  Then
put in one more pin stack and try again - feeling when one stack is
picked and the plug rotates minutely - so little that it is felt rather
than seen.  Then when the second one is picked that will let the plug
move, unlocking the lock.  Keep on adding stacks.  Try picking with the
curved finger (or feeler) pick, and also raking.

  As you get involved in doing some elementary locksmithing, also learn
about the quality of hardware and how to pick appropriate hardware for
the projected use.  There is a quality grade based on testing by ANSI
(the American National Standards Institute) which give an indication of
the resistance of a lockset to wear and unauthorized entry.

          + Grade 1 - commercial quality for heavy use
          + Grade 2 - heavier residential use and light commercial use
          + Grade 3 - light residential use (widely used for residential
            use where cost is the primary consideration, most locksmiths
            would recommend Grade 2 as a minimum.

  There are also many people on the net who are willing to help in
various areas.  Posting a question on alt.locksmithing can help find
someone.  One person who is willing to offer free advice about
old doors and door locks is Dr. Dorlock ( who tells us,
"My only interest is saving old doors from "butchery" by professionals
who do not know new solutions to old problems."  Write him or check his
[48]web page.
(Don't write to him about lockpicking.)

  13. How do I continue learning about locksmithing?

  There are several things you can do to continue learning more about
locks and locksmithing.  One, of course, is to subscribe to a
locksmithing magazine.  Some years ago I compared the National
Locksmith to the Locksmith Ledger and felt that the latter was a bit
better on technical info.  Call yourself a Student Locksmith, or
perhaps a Security Consultant (surely you have given some advice to
*somebody*!).  Also read The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 4th
ed. by Bill Phillips which was mentioned above.

  Lock companies are starting to use the Internet to distribute
information.  See the on-line resources section below for many lock
related web sites.

  But all this reading can help only so much, so you have to continue
buying various types of locks, taking them apart, figuring out
everything about them, and installing, removing, modifying them.
Buy some key blanks, make up a master key scheme, and file the keys
to fit (assuming you don't have a key machine yet) - filing may
take a few minutes, but it does work.  Maybe buy a re-keying kit
(kit of different size pins, with a plug follower) and do some
re-keying for your family or friends (the same size pins fit, I
think, the familiar Kwikset and Schlage pin tumbler locks) so that
their deadbolts can be opened with their normal front door key.
(Hint - when disassembling a lock you may want to do it inside a
transparent plastic bag.  Then the small pieces and springs will be
trapped and won't go flying across the room, leaving you with a sad look
on your face.)  (A follower is used to push the plug out, when the pins
are at the shear line, therefore keeping the top pins and springs in
place.  Then the rekeyed plug is used to push out the follower, again
keeping the top pins and springs in place.  Similarly the follower can
be used when loading new springs and top pins, keeping the loaded ones
in place.)

Or buy a deadbolt installation kit (hole saw plus template - I
think that Black and Decker makes a good inexpensive one, available
at better building supply places) and put in a few deadbolts for
your family and friends - charging them only for the materials plus
a couple of bucks towards the installation kit - and re-key the
deadbolt for them, too.

  Buy or make a pick set, and use your practice locks to practice
picking.  Do you have a good locksmith supply catalog?  If not, give a
call to a local supplier.  Help people at work
who have been locked out of their desks or filing cabinets.  Desks
usually have wafer tumbler locks which are *much* easier to pick than
pin tumbler locks.  Filing cabinets are not as easy to pick, but are
pickable (actually some are very easy to pick - they vary greatly) and
also can be opened by pushing a flexible plastic ruler between the
side of the sliding drawer and the cabinet body - carefully inspect some
working cabinets to see what I'm talking about.

  13a. How do I learn the locksmithing trade?

Joe Kesselman posted this advice:

     The mail-order courses will teach you the very basics -- but that's
     just a starting point. Their main value is in teaching you what
     questions to ask and some terminology so you can go on to learn
     more from other sources. You _can_ get started this way, but it
     takes determination and considerable additional effort. As with any
     trade, there's a lot of detail to learn and skills that come only
     with practice.
     If you're planning to apprentice to an established locksmith (not
     at all a bad idea) you might want to start by asking around and
     determining whether the folks in your area would be more likely to
     give you a chance after you've taken one of these courses. Some
     consider the course a helpful bootstrap, some don't. In my area,
     shops seem to be looking for folks who are willing to take on the
     automotive work so the principals can spend their time doing more
     interesting (and lucrative) stuff, and I'm not convinced the
     learn-at-home classes teach much that's useful about this corner of
     the field.

Joe also points out that locksmithing associations, shows and
journals are valuable sources of continuing education.

The National Locksmith (a monthly trade journal) requires some form of
affiliation with the locksmithing/security industry for subscription or
for purchase of their training manuals - here's the contact info:

The National Locksmith Magazine
Marc Goldberg, Publisher
They also sell a variety of books and software.
1533 Burgundy Pky
Streamwood, IL 60107

Jay Hennigan added:

     ... However, the best way to really learn the trade is by working
     in a real lock shop for a period of time. There are "tricks of the
     trade" that can only be learned in such an environment, and this
     trade tends to be more secretive than most, due to the (IMHO
     misguided) belief in "security through obscurity".

Foley-Belsaw, and perhaps other correspondence schools, will often send
out a series of offers with lower and lower prices if you wait after you
first ask and get their initial (highest) price.  People report that the
F-B price eventually goes down to $499, and one person has said $399.

6301 Equitable Rd.,Kansas City,MO,64120

Another mass market correspondence school is NRI Schools 4401
Connecticut Ave, NW, Washington, DC 20008-2323, 1-800-321-4634 Ext.
3650 202-244-1600 Fax:202-244-2047

Some more schools - (Res. means a residential program, Cor. means
correspondence)  Thanks to Marc
Goldberg of THE NATIONAL LOCKSMITH for compiling this list.  (See
elsewhere in this FAQ for his Web site, etc.)

Acme School of Locksmithing 11350 S. Harlem,Worth,IL,60482
708-361-3750 Fax:,708-448-9306(Res.)

California Institute of Locksmithing 14721 Oxnard St. Van Nuys,CA,91411

[49] College of Security Technology & Management
12800 South U.S. 71,Grandview,MO,60430 816-765-5551 Fax:816-765-1777

Colorado Lks. College Inc. 4991 W. 80th Ave. Unit 103A,Westminster,CO,80030

Golden Gate School of Lock Technology 3722 San Pablo Ave.,Oakland,CA,94608

[50] Granton Institute of Technology
263 Adelaide St. West,Toronto  Ont.,CANADA,M5H1Y3
416-977-3929 Fax:416-977-5612 INFO@GRANTONINSTITUTE.COM

Locksmith School (Res.) 3901 S. Meridian St.,Indianapolis,IN,46217
317-632-3979 Fax:17-784-2945

Locksmithing Institute of America 226 Fairfield Rd.,Fairfield,NJ,07004
(not at that address - probably defunct)

[51] LTC Training Center (Cor.) P.O. Box 3583,Davenport,IA,52808-3583
800-358-9393 319-322-6669 Fax:319-324-7938

Messick Vo/Tech Center (Res.) 703 South Greer,Memphis,TN,38111
901-325-4840 Fax:901-325-4843

North Bennett Street School 39 North Bennett St.,Boston,MA,02113-1998
617-227-0155 Fax:617-227-9292

[52] Pine Technical College (Res.,Web) 1000 4th St.,Pine City,MN,55063
800-521-7463 320-629-6764 320-629-7603 HECKMAN@PTC.TEC.MN.US

Professional Career Development Institute 3957 Parkway Lane,Norcross,GA,30092

Red Deer College Box 5005,Red Deer  AB,Canada,T4N 5H5
403-342-3450 Fax:403-342-3576 SHAUN.LOVELL@RDC.AB.CA

[53] School of Lock Technology (Res.) 1049 Island Ave.,San Diego,CA,92101
619-234-4512619-234-5937 GRAH@GRAHSECURITY.COM

School of Lock Technology -  Orange (Res.) 302 W. Katella Ave.,Orange,CA,92667
714-633-1366 Fax: 714-633-0199

School of Lock Technology-Austin 509 Rio Grande St.,Austin,TX,78701
888-511-8874 512-473-8874 Fax:512-472-4838 OCOTHRON@AOL.COM

Southern Locksmith Training Institute 1387 Airline Drive,Bossier City,LA,71112
318-227-9458 318-746-1734

The Academy of Locksmithing 2220 Midland Ave. Unit 106,Scarborough
Ont.,Canada,M1P 3E6 888-272-8265 416-321-2220 Fax:416-321-5115 TAOL@PW.CA

Universal School of Master Locksmithing (Res., Cor.)
3201 Fulton Ave.,Sacramento,CA,95821 916-482-4216 Fax:916-485-9385

[54]Sully Tools, Inc. auto entry tools
and Automotive Lock Institute car entry seminars

A list of [55]"Locksmithing
schools around the world" is at a site giving many locksmith links.

There is a general feeling that most of the correspondence courses give
limited and dated information which isn't sufficient to become a
locksmith, and that taking such a course may not even be an advantage in
getting a job in a real lock shop.  However there are some courses (both

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