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Archive-name: music/guitars/rickenbacker
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Last-modified: 2002/09/08
Version: 2.7
URL: http://www.faqs.org/faqs/music/guitars/rickenbacker/
Copyright: (c) 2002 Gerard Lanois
Maintainer: Gerard Lanois
Frequently Asked Questions For alt.guitar.rickenbacker
by Gerard Lanois
gerardlanois@netscape.net
------------------------------
Subject: 1. Introduction
Welcome to alt.guitar.rickenbacker!
This newsgroup is dedicated to the discussion of musical instruments
manufactured by the Rickenbacker International Corporation.
The purpose of this document is to present the answers to the most
frequently asked questions on the newsgroup.
Those who are new to Usenet newsgroups will want to pay a visit to the
Usenet Information Center at http://sunsite.unc.edu/usenet-i/home.html
Please send corrections, updates, and additions to the maintainer
at gerardlanois@netscape.net
The most recent version of this document can always be found at
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/music/guitars/rickenbacker/
------------------------------
Subject: 1.1 Legal Disclaimers
And, lastly, the lawyers asked me to state the following:
This article is provided as-is without any expressed or implied
warranties. While every effort has been taken to ensure the
accuracy of the information contained in this article, the
author assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions,
or for damages resulting from the use or mis-use of the
information contained herein.
Any product or service mentioned in this document does not
constitute any kind of recommendation or endorsement by
the author. Should you decide to make use of any such
product or service mentioned in this document you do so
at your own risk.
And while we're on the subject:
This document, its associated web site, and its author are
in no way affiliated with the Rickenbacker International
Corporation.
All trademarks mentioned in this document are property of
their respective owners.
------------------------------
Subject: 1.2 Summary Of Changes For This Version
5.4 What kinds of strings work well with Rickenbacker guitars?
UPDATED
[John Hall, jhall@rickenbacker.com, 08/27/2002]
------------------------------
Subject: 2. Table Of Contents
1. Introduction
1.1 Legal Disclaimers
1.2 Summary Of Changes For This Version
2. Table of Contents
3. A Brief History Of alt.guitar.rickenbacker
4. Jargon / Glossary, Miscellaneous Lore and Traditions
5. Frequently Asked Questions
5.1 How do I pronounce "Rickenbacker"?
5.2 What is Rick-o-Sound and how do I use it?
5.3 What are the neck widths of the various Rickenbacker
models?
5.4 What kinds of strings work well with Rickenbacker guitars?
What are Pyramid strings? Where can I buy them?
5.5 What are some suggestions on how to re-string my
Rickenbacker 6-string or 12-string guitar?
5.6 How does the serial number system work? My guitar
(or bass) has serial number XX-1234. What year was
it made?
5.7 How can I get "The Sound" without owning a 370/12 RM?
5.8 How do I care for my Ric's finish?
5.9 Oil finishes too?
5.10 Will unwinding my vintage re-issue pickups make
them sound better? What is the procedure?
5.11 What are the types of magnets used in the different kinds
of pickups and their sonic characteristics?
5.12 What are the differences between a 4001 and a 4003 bass?
5.13 Where can I buy a Rickenbacker acoustic guitar?
5.14 Can I get a tour of the Rickenbacker factory? Is there
a showroom where I can try/buy guitars?
5.15 Can I order a custom-made guitar/bass from Rickenbacker?
Can I send my guitar/bass to Rickenbacker to have them
customize it for me?
5.16 How can I rewire my 325 or 350 to make the 5th knob
function as a volume knob for the middle pickup?
5.17 How can I reduce the hum my guitar/pickups are putting
out?
5.18 How do I adjust the action/truss rods?
5.19 Which Rickenbacker did which Beatle use to record
which song?
5.20 How is a model 330 different from a 360?
5.21 Why doesn't Rickenbacker manufacture (overseas) a
budget range like Squier/Epiphone/DeArmond?
5.22 What string gauges does Peter Buck use?
5.23 I would like to buy a new truss rod cover. Why does
Rickenbacker require me to trade in my old one?
5.24 Why don't modern Rickenbackers have the same inlays
as they did back in the sixties?
5.25 Can I use a Schaller strap lock system with a
Rickenbacker guitar?
5.26 What is the difference between Autumnglo and Walnut?
5.27 What is the relationship between Electro, Ryder,
and Rickenbacker?
5.28 What gauge wire is used in Rickenbacker pickups?
5.29 What type of material is used for Rickenbacker
pick guards?
5.30 What type of wood is used for Rickenbacker fret boards?
5.31 What is the dark wood used in the laminated maple necks
of Rickenbacker guitars?
5.32 Where can I get the font for the Rickenbacker logo?
------------------------------
Subject: 3. A Brief History Of alt.guitar.rickenbacker
These are not necessarily frequently asked questions, but
serve to bring new and potential readers up to speed on
the purpose of this newsgroup.
------------------------------
Subject: 3.1 When was this newsgroup created? Who created it?
What is the charter?
On 11/19/1997 Peter McCormack [mccorp@nbnet.nb.ca] posted his proposal
to the the alt.config newsgroup. Here is a copy of Peter's original
proposal:
"I would like to propose a newsgroup for guitar enthusiasts interested
exclusively in the History and Technical aspects pertaining to the
Rickenbacker guitar, past and present. This would be different from the
alt.guitar newsgroup as it would have a specialized interest in the
Rickenbacker models and the Artists who play them. The first real
electric guitars were Rickenbackers and as such there is a longstanding
history. I believe that the readers of the alt.guitar newsgroup would
grow weary of this topic and it is probably best to have a unique
newgroup. This would also provide a forum that does not have to be
monitored by a single individual, a most exhausting undertaking.
Of course, the decision on this will be made by the readers.
Please tell me what you think."
On 11/25/1997, Peter posted this charter along with his newgroup
control message:
"Charter:
The group is interested in the history of the rickenbacker guitar
and bass, related technical aspects pertaining to the instruments
and the sounds produced by artists using them.
Justification of Readership:
A substantial interest in the rickenbacker guitar has developed in
the alt.guitar newsgroup, however, the narrow scope of the topic
coupled with the increased high volume provides justification for a
more specilaized group. A very fine web site called the rickenbacker
project has generated ongoing interest, however, there is no
interactive forum for its regular viewers. In summary, this newsgroup
will provide a specialized forum for readers on more technical and
historical matters that are not considered appropriate for
alt.guitar."
On 3/3/1998, Peter posted this review to news.groups.reviews:
"Most people interested in Rock Music are familiar with The
Beatles, The Byrds and Creedence Clearwater Revival and The
Who as these groups shaped the lives of millions of enthusiastic
Baby Boomers during the 1960's. But how many rock music
enthusiasts know anything about the very fine Rickenbacker
guitars that these musicians played. Well this is your opportunity
to go behind the scenes and learn about how the classic jingle
jangle of Mr. Tambourine Man and the mystery beginning and unique
ending of A Hard Day's Night came about. You can expect to meet
some of the friendliest and knowledgable Rickenbacker die hards
on the planet with an insatiable desire to let those interested
know all about their guitars and basses. The depth of historical
and technical knowledge to be had in this newsgroup is truly amazing
and interested readers can be expected to be introduced to such
topics as: how to find a Rickenbacker guitar and bass; cost
appraisals; the best way to ship an instrument around the world;
who played what guitar when; and how to make modifications,
adjustments and repairs. Of particular interest is the enthusiasm
and participation of Mr. John Hall, the CEO of Rickenbacker
International Corporation and Mr. Roger McGuinn of The Byrds.
This group has brightened the day of many Rickenbacker fans since
its creation on November 25, 1997. Regular readers have expressed
concern about irrelevant and offensive posts and nobody welcomes
spam at anytime. My view is that the benefits of this newsgroup
far outweigh these difficulties and for a group that is only three
months old a loyal following is evident. Being involved as a reader
of this group is one of the most rewarding experiences I have had
with respect to the internet. Special mention must be given to Evil
Bob at the Rickenbacker Project, Eugene Calame at Texas net and Bob
Bellof for it is their enthusiasm that sparked the creation of this
group. Most of all what makes this group invaluable is the devotion
of its readers who take the time to share their knowledge and hearts
with others."
------------------------------
Subject: 3.3 What kinds of topics are appropriate for discussion?
Anything to do with Rickenbacker, really. Some examples follow,
both good and bad.
Examples Of Appropriate Topics:
- Anything manufactured by Rickenbacker International Corporation
including guitars, basses, banjos, pedal steel guitars, amplifiers,
and accessories.
- Artists who use Rickenbackers, and the music they have recorded
and/or performed using Rickenbacker equipment. In such cases
you might consider to cross-posting to an artist-specific newsgroup,
such as one of the ones given below (see Subject 6.1).
- Rickenbacker equipment for sale, or trade, or wanted to buy.
- Recent sightings of Rickenbacker instruments on television, movies,
live performances, and printed media.
- Models, colors, factory options, technical specifications.
- Collecting
- Maintaining, repairing, upgrading, ehancing.
- Amplification, effects.
- Questions on any of the above (but read this FAQ first).
Examples Of Topics To Avoid:
- Equipment other than Rickenbacker for sale.
- "Yo dewds, Rickenbacker suxx, Fender/Gibson rulez" religious wars.
- Binary files. This is considered bad netiquette. Please consider
putting together a web page, or maybe contributing your pictures
to one of the existing web pages (I'm sure the web masters would
appreciate some new pictures).
------------------------------
Subject: 3.4 Is this group archived?
Yes. See http://groups.google.com/ Follow the link "Groups Help"
for detailed instructions on how to use this service.
[Gerard Lanois, gerardlanois@netscape.net, 6/1/2000]
[David Fell, david@phaseshift.com, 05/26/2002]
------------------------------
Subject: 3.5 My ISP doesn't carry this group. How can I read it?
Some ISPs won't add the group unless you ask them to. Other ISPs
will wait for the newsgroup to show up at their site before adding it.
[Gerard Lanois, gerardlanois@netscape.net, 9/1/1998]
Alternatively, you can use Google groups at
http://groups.google.com/groups?group=alt.guitar.rickenbacker
[Gerard Lanois, gerardlanois@netscape.net, 05/26/2001]
------------------------------
Subject: 4. Jargon / Glossary, Miscellaneous Lore and Traditions
Here are some terms and acronyms which you may find unique to
this newsgroup.
"OHSC" - Original Hard Shell Case.
"Toaster Top" - The original style chrome pickup covers resemble
miniature chrome toasters (as viewed from above).
The vintage re-issue models have replicas of these
types of pickups.
"RM" - shorthand for the holy grail of Rickenbacker guitars -
the Roger McGuinn Limited Edition model 370/12RM.
"The Guitar" - George Harrison's model 360/12.
"The Sound" - Refers to the unique tonal characteristics of
Rickenbacker guitars and basses.
"8MH" - shorthand notation for "Eight Miles High".
"MTM" - shorthand notation for "Mister Tambourine Man".
"NAMM" - "National Association of Music Merchants", this is
the big music industry association, they have a big
convention once a year (in January), plus a summer
show (in July).
"CW" - The Carl Wilson Limited Edition Guitar. See
http://www.rickenbacker.com/us/360cw.htm
"GC" = "Guitar Center", a large chain music store.
------------------------------
Subject: 5. Frequently Asked Questions
------------------------------
Subject: 5.1 How do I pronounce "Rickenbacker"?
It is Ricken-BACK-er, by the choice of Adolph Rickenbacker.
[John Hall, ceo@rickenbacker.com, 3/3/1998]
------------------------------
Subject: 5.2 What is Rick-O-Sound and how do I use it?
Some Rickenbacker models include a 1/4" stereo output jack
which separates the signals coming from each of the pickups.
In the case of three-pickup guitars, the stock wiring circuit
combines the neck and middle pickups onto one channel, and
the bridge pickup is on the other channel.
There are three ways to use it:
1. The official Rick-O-Sound adapter
2. A stereo Y-splitter available from Radio Shack
3. Use a stereo guitar cord (you may have to build one yourself)
This allows you to use different amplifiers, effects, and/or
equalization on each channel resulting in some very interesting
possibilities to create new sounds with your instrument.
[Gerard Lanois, gerardlanois@netscape.net, 8/31/1998]
See the Rickenbacker Owner's Manual section on Rick-O-Sound,
http://www.rickenbacker.com/us/ros.htm
[Gerard Lanois, gerardlanois@netscape.net, 2/4/1999]
"I finally had a chance to try out the Horizon "insert" cable
I purchased from Musician's Friend. This is a 10' 3-conductor
cable with a 1/4" stereo male plug on one end at two 1/4"
mono male plugs on the other end.
In terms of noise and signal quality, I think it worked very well.
I'm not impressed with the strain-relief on the plugs - they used
fairly cheesy crimping style plugs. So, I'd bless it for the home
studio, but I wouldn't trust it to gig with regularly, and I certainly
wouldn't dare go out on the road with it.
In case you want to try this yourself, the Horizon part number is
"HYS-P-10" for the 10ft version (they make a 3ft and 6ft version
as well). This type of cable is usually employed in a PA
effects loop, but I'd always wanted to try it with a guitar.
Until now I couldn't find one with 1/4" male mono plugs.
I got mine from Musician's Friend (http://www.musiciansfriend.com/).
Their stock number is "336120 154 01". They charged $19.95.
I did find the 10ft length a little short for my liking; I usually
prefer a 20ft cord (so I can jump around like the wildman that I am)."
[Gerard Lanois, gerardlanois@netscape.net, 7/24/1999]
------------------------------
Subject: 5.3 What are the neck widths of the various Rickenbacker models?
The exact neck widths for each model currently in production (basses
too) are included in the specifications for each model on the Rickenbacker
web site, http://www.rickenbacker.com/
Most Rickenbacker guitars in production today come with a neck that is
1 5/8" wide at the nut, and 1 15/16" at the 12th fret. But there are
also some Rickenbackers guitars in production which have a wider neck,
measuring 1 3/4" at the nut and 2 1/16" at the 12th fret. If you're
looking for a guitar with a wider neck, here is what John Hall has to say:
"The Tom Petty Limited Edition, the 380L Laguna, and the 650 Series
all have the same wider neck, essentially the same as a Les Paul
(although we chose to have a different shape).
But we also announced two new models to our dealers on Decmber
24th [1997]. . . the Model 660 six stringer and the Model 660/12
twelve stringer, which all have this wider profile neck. These are
now in standard production and pretty well gives everyone a choice
of their favorite neck width in the Rickenbacker line."
[John Hall, ceo@rickenbacker.com, 12/26/1998]
------------------------------
Subject: 5.4 What kinds of strings work well with Rickenbacker guitars?
What are Pyramid strings? Where can I buy them?
More and more Rickenbacker players are singing the praises of
flat wound strings:
"Pyramid flatwound strings are distributed by Vintage String Distributors,
http://www.pyramidstrings.com/ and are available either directly
from Vintage String Distributors or from selected Pyramid String
Dealers in the USA.
The Pyramid 12 string set is approx. the same gauges (.010-.0465)
as the old Rick/Maxima # 483 flat wound 12 string set as well as
being pure nickel."
[info@pyramidstrings.com 9/5/1998]
"Tomastik-Infeld flatwound strings are available from
John M. Connoly & Co. Inc.
24 Vernon Valley Road
East Northport, NY 11731
516-757-0110"
[rick12dr@aol.com 9/5/1998]
"The best [...] flatwounds for 12-string come from Pyramid [...]
The strings are expensive but well worth the $35 or so you will spend,
as they last a very long time, and the tone is the right one. GHS also
will put together a custom set of flats, and I have discussed it with
a rep at Thomastik-Infeld, but don't even ask how much THEY were!
GHS really don't do it for me, as their flats are just not nearly as
smooth. The company that should make 12-string flats is D'Addario, whose
High Finish Ribbon Wound flats are EXCELLENT for the money ($10 or less
for a 6-string set)."
[Bob Belloff, BobKat2@worldnet.att.net, 1/6/1998]
John Hall had this to say about the effect string choice has on the
intonation of twelve-string guitars which have a six-saddle bridge.
Even if you have a six-string guitar, you'll find his observations
about the uniformity of diameter of strings fascinating:
"There are actually only a very few string factories producing guitar
strings in this country, and all the rest of the brands . . . including
some of the really well known brands . . . are done as private label
production. Certainly we do the same thing; it's a very specialized
business and we certainly know more about making guitars then we do
about making strings.
The base problem is that the strings coming out of these very few
factories are simply not created equally. There's one very prolific
producer out there that simply makes a very poor quality product, and
at times, strings from this factory end up marketed as expensive,
quality brands. On the other hand, the identical strings also appear
as bargain brands, just as some truly good strings do too.
I am specifically referring to uniformity of diameter, as this is where
almost all intonation error originates. If you have a guitar that doesn't
want to intonate but is otherwise in good adjustment, and you have a
micrometer available to you, measure the diameter up and down the string.
I virtually guarantee that you'll find significant manufacturing variation
over the length of the string. Basic physics tells you that it will be
utterly impossible to adjust this out, no matter whether you have a 6 or
12 saddle bridge.
Again I'll say it: if you use a quality . . . uniformly gauged . . .
string set on a twelve-stringer, you will have no difficulty whatsoever
intonating the guitar using a 6 saddle bridge."
[John Hall, ceo@rickenbacker.com, 8/29/1998]
See the Rickenbacker Owner's Manual section on strings,
http://www.rickenbacker.com/us/strings1.htm
[Gerard Lanois, gerardlanois@netscape.net, 2/4/1999]
"Think about this for a second. Surely everyone knows that the
pitch of a string vibrating is directly proportional to the
tension and the mass of the string. Imagine that your string is
just slightly oversize but say only between the 5th and 6th
fret. You tune your string to an open note which is the entire
string vibrating. Now you set the intonation when fretting out at
the 12th fret, and that's supposed to be an octave higher since
the mass is exactly one half. (The tension stays the same,
neglecting fretting imprecision.) But in fact there's less than
half the open string mass because more is centered back there
between the 5th and 6th fret.
Now it gets worse. You play notes on the 5th fret and below and
that extra erroneous mass is still in there affecting the
pitch. Play on the 6th fret and above, and it all goes away.
Inconsistent strings won't intonate no matter how many saddles you
have. Laws of physics. Period."
[John Hall, jhall@rickenbacker.com, 8/27/2002]
------------------------------
Subject: 5.5 What are some suggestions on how to re-string my Rickenbacker
6-string or 12-string guitar?
"The problem is the "R" tailpiece which relies on the tension
of the strings to hold it in place. It has to be doen carefully, no
more than 2 strings at a time or the tailpiece starts sliding around."
[RV, rvwrlee@aol.com, 3/20/1998]
A popular approach is to change only one string at a time, with the
following benefits:
a. It maintains tension on the neck.
[Bob Belloff, BobKat2@worldnet.att.net, 3/20/1998]
b. So you don't forget which string goes to which peg.
[Gerard Lanois, gerardlanois@netscape.net, 9/3/1998]
If you need to replace your strings after having removed them all
(perhaps for repair or cleaning purposes) you can use this
technique (which also applies to 6 string models as well):
"When I string a 12, I do the 12th string and the 1st string first,
to keep the tailpiece in place."
[Bob Belloff, BobKat2@worldnet.att.net]
"Before and while you restring, take that empty string envelope and
slide it under the strings behind the bridge and under the tailpiece--this
helps prevent the ball ends from scratching the surface of the guitar.
Try it !!!"
[RICK12DR, rick12dr@aol.com, 3/20/1998]
"Stick a little piece of scotch tape to the ball end. Pull the ball into
the R tailpiece with the sticky side up, so it holds the ball in the
groove in the R tailpiece long enough to get tension on it. It pulls
loose easily once the tension is on the string."
[John Sessoms, jsessoms@pagesz.net, 3/20/1998]
If you are fortunate enough to own a 360/12v64, you may find it easier
to use a 12-hole tailpiece. "RICK12DR" sells a custom 12-hole trapeze
tailpiece to replace the stock 6-hole tailpiece. Contact rick12dr@aol.com
for more info.
[Gerard Lanois, gerardlanois@netscape.net, 9/5/1998]
"I like using a Zap-It, which essentially is a string winder that fits on
a cordless screwdriver. That way it's very easy to wind the strings with
your left hand while holding the string at tension with your right hand.
Besides the cordless screwdriver gives a very even rotation of the tuner."
[Dave Deckman, davedeck@ix.netcom.com, 10/14/1998]
"Here's how I do it (for a 12-string):
1. take all strings off
2. put strings in all the recessed pegs first
a. put 3rd and 4th strings on first (d and g)
They are highest on the head stock. This keeps things
clear for the lower sets on the head stock.
b. cut string about 2 - 2 1/2" longer than the post
c. position post hole so that you are pushings string thru
downward towards the body.
d. w/needle nosed pliers, pull about 1/2" or less of string thru.
e. wind so the coil goes to the outside of the headstock (the low
and high e's may try to bind on the head stock name plate
otherwise)
f. do the next two lower strings on head stock, i.e. a and b.
g. do the high and low e's next.
3. put remaining strings on the upright posts.
This keeps things pretty clutter free. Changing strings on my 620-12
is a study in Houdini-like contortion. I keep the body braced against
my left thigh and foot and wrap my right leg around it to keep the body
still. I use my left hand to keep the sting ball in place until I can
make tension w/my right hand, using my index finger to hold the string
away from the head stock. Then I use a manual winder w/my left hand.
Simple, ain't it?"
[Bruce Terrell, bterrell@ocean.nos.noaa.gov, 1/16/1999]
"I use a Kyser (quick release) capo to maintain tension, while changing
one string at a time on my 360/6. Works well."
[laker@cwia.com, 1/20/1999]
I realize this isn't practical for most of you, but I'll relate
how we string these in the factory. It might stimulate some
creative thinking!
On a padded table, we lay down the tailpiece face down and insert
the ends of the strings into the fingers of the tailpiece,
spreading out the strings lengthwise. We then put a piece of
masking tape over the back of the tailpiece, holding all the ball
ends in place. Now the tailpiece is placed on the guitar's
bracket, while the highest and lowest E strings are tightened up a
bit. Using a Zap-It tool inserted in a common electric
screwdriver, all the strings are brought up to rough pitch. The
tape is removed before the guitar gets a fine tuning.
Takes five minutes, tops.
As I said, it's not practical outside the shop. We've always
recommended that you only change one or two strings at a
time. While it does have the side effect of keeping the tailpiece
and bridge in position, this advice really was related to keeping
the neck under tension, to avoid truss rod slippage and/or "rubber
neck" syndrome. However, my opinion is that models made since 1984
with the new truss rod system are probably not going to be
adversely affected much by changing strings this way and it
certainly does make it much easier to clean the fingerboard as
well.
[John Hall, jhall@rickenbacker.com, 09/17/2001]
------------------------------
Subject: 5.6 How does the serial number system work? My guitar (or bass)
has serial number XX-1234. What year was it made?
This system is given on Mike Parks' web page:
http://www.the-music-connection.com/ricinfo.htm#ser
[Gerard Lanois, gerardlanois@netscape.net, 2/4/1999]
You can use the official Rickenbacker serial number decoder on the web.
You type in your serial number, and it spits back the year and month
of manufacture:
http://rickenbacker.com/cgi-bin/sn.cgi
[Gerard Lanois, gerardlanois@netscape.net, 9/1/1998]
------------------------------
Subject: 5.7 How can I get "The Sound" without owning a 370/12 RM?
"I think an external compressor is a better solution anyway.
It gives you more options. I have a DBX MC6 Mini-Comp that allows me to
adjust the Threshold, Ratio, Attack, Release, and Output Gain
individually, select a hard or "soft" compression knee, or use auto
programmed presets (vocal or instrument); and I'm not limited to having
it on just one guitar."
[John Sessoms, jsessoms@pagesz.net, 5/22/1998]
"I'll vouch for Boss compressors, too, although I don't use the current
CS-3.
http://www.rolandus.com/products/MI/MIboss_CP-EQ.html#CS-3
http://www.harmony-central.com/Effects/Data/Boss/CS-3-01.html
Some people still swear by the old MXR Dyna Comp, though.
http://www.jimdunlop.com/mxr.html
http://www.harmony-central.com/Effects/Data/MXR/Dyna-Comp-01.html
http://www.soundbarrier.com/top10vin.htm
Me, I've been using the old Boss CS-1 for eons. 60dBs compression with a
treble-enhance mode switch. (Musta had the Byrds in mind when they
designed it.)"
[Tomcat, 813@SPAMBLOCKmlode.com, 5/21/1998]
------------------------------
Subject: 5.8 How do I care for my Ric's finish?
"The factory cloth is the best for the finish but at some point, everyone
will need something a little more aggressive. Pure Carnuba wax is the
preferred polishing agent but some liquid auto polish, like Turtle Wax,
diluted a bit with water can be used on a particularly dirty or scratched
instrument. The cloth used should be very soft and should also be dampened
a bit.
You know you're doing it right when as you wipe you see little beads of
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