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There are many FAQ's available for this group.  For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs".  This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
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==========


                           Assorted Topics (Part II)
                                       
Author

   Cindy Tittle Moore, cindy@k9web.com
   Copyright 1995.
   
Table of Contents

     * Owner Allergies.
     * Pet Doors.
     * Pet Insurance.
     * Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.
          + Pet Sitting
          + Kennels
     * Photographing Black Dogs
     * Record Keeping.
          + Breeders
          + Titles
          + Working dogs
          + Your personal enjoyment
     * Removing Odors and Stains.
          + Removing uring
          + Skunks
          + Saliva
     * Separation Anxiety.
     * Travel and International Travel.
          + Car
          + Travelling by plane
          + International Travel
          + Quarantines
          + Shipping
     * Vicious Dogs
     * Waste Composting
     * Wolves and Wolf Hybrids
          + Wolves
          + Wolf-Hybrids
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Owner Allergies.

   You can go to an allergy specialist and get shots to help you with
   specific allergies. This can be expensive, but worth it, especially if
   you have other allergies as well. They'll test you for the things
   you're allergic to, and then give you periodic shots to help you
   develop an appropriate immunity to them (you should be aware that the
   shots do not always work). Be sure to find an allergy specialist
   familiar with dog allergies: there are far too many doctors out there
   that will simply say "Get rid of your pets." Other approaches may be
   used as well: cortisone nasal sprays, eye drops, etc. Air filters
   often help, as well as reducing the amount of wall-to-wall carpeting,
   if possible. Find someone who will work with your particular problem.
   
   Different breeds may work for different people who have allergy
   problems. It depends on exactly what it is about dogs that causes the
   problem. Some people are allergic to the hair, but others are allergic
   to the dander. Still others are not specifically allergic to dogs, but
   are allergic to things like dust and the dogs provide an *additional*
   irritant that is sufficent when combined with other allergens to
   provoke a reaction. In yet other cases, people are allergic to a dog
   licking them. You must find out which is true for your case.
   
   Some people do well with Basenjis and Miniature Pincers and other dogs
   with little or no coat. Others do well with poodles and schnauzers and
   airedales who have a different type of coat. A lot of people do well
   with Shih Tzus and Lhasa Apsos who, while very hairy, are supposed to
   have hair much more like human hair.
   
   This is VERY important: every dog lover with allergy problems needs to
   spend some time with different breeds to find the one that doesn't
   aggravate the problem.
   
   In many cases, bathing the dog frequently, cleaning the bedding,
   vacumming and closing off your bedroom will help alleviate allergy
   problems. There is also a spray available that you put on the dog that
   is supposed to reduce the amount of allergens they shed called
   Allerpet/D Most pet stores carry the stuff, and the bottle has an 800
   number you can call for more information.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Pet Doors.

   Some points:
     * Get one that at least has magnetic strips to hold the door shut.
       In colder climates, you might want to consider a "double door",
       i.e, the outer door must close before the inner one opens. This
       would cut down on the drafts.
     * Size is deceptive. Dogs don't really need as much space as you
       might think to get in and out.
     * Installation is usually very easy. Some models fit into patio
       doors and are removable. Make sure the one you get is lockable or
       blockable. If the door is hollow-core, it is trickier, because
       then you have to insert a frame in the door for the pet door to
       attach to.
     * The wall between your garage and house is considered a 'fire wall'
       and you're not supposed to cut any holes in it. In particular, it
       could make fire insurance claims tricky. And if you sell the
       house, you will have to fix the hole first.
     * Install the door in such a place as to make it impossible for
       someone to push something through it to open a door or window,
       even if they can't crawl through themselves. Ideally, you should
       have some way of locking or disabling the door for times when you
       are gone, say on vacation.
       
   Johnson pet doors are frequently recommended. RC Steele stocks them.
   Another source is America's Pet Door Store (1-800-826-2871).
   
   There exist electronic pet doors that are activated by a special
   collar. Most of these are for cats, but there are models for dogs up
   to 110lbs. These help keep unwanted animals from entering your house.
   These are, of course, somewhat expensive.
   
   Some dogs need coaxing to use the door. Prop the door open and offer a
   treat from the other side. Don't try and push your dog through.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Pet Insurance.

   Pet insurance plans are typically accident policies, although some
   also cover routine medical expenses such as worming and shots (or even
   grooming) -- the latter are generally a better deal.
   
   Between the deductibles and allowances, you may not get very much back
   on an actual claim. In several years of rec.pets.dogs, no reader has
   come back with a favorable story on claim processing.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.

  Pet Sitting
  
   In some cases, you can find friends or neighbors willing to take care
   of your pets while you are gone. But another option is a professional
   pet sitting service. Look for ones that are licensed and bonded, and
   have an excellent set of references. Talk to several people who have
   used their services to see if they will meet your needs.
   
   Check with the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters.
   Members must sign a code of ethics and can be removed if there are
   complaints. They can give you a list of pet sitters in your area. You
   can reach them at 1200 G Street, N.W., Suite 760, Washington, D.C.
   20005. Their brochure includes their code of ethics, and includes a
   list of what to look for in a reputable pet sitter; see list below.
   
   Another one is Pet Sitters International. It was founded by the
   original founder of the now defunct NAPS, Patti Moran. The address and
   phone number of PSI is:
   
     Pet Sitters International
     418 East King St.
     King, NC 27021
     (910) 983-9222
     
   Ask the company if they're bonded or insured. See if they'll send
   someone more than once a day. Ask for references from previous and
   current customers. Some will bring the paper and mail in and help make
   the place look "occupied;" that's a plus.
   
   Check the potential sitter for the following:
    1. Does the pet sitter furnish written literature describing services
       and stating fees?
    2. Does the pet sitter visit the home beforehand to meet with the
       client and pet to obtain detailed information?
    3. Does the sitter arrive on time?
    4. Does the sitter get along with your pet? Does the sitter exhibit
       confidence and ease with your pets?
    5. Is the pet sitter courteous, interested, and well informed?
    6. Does the sitter have written references?
    7. Is the sitter willing to give you names and numbers of former
       clients for references?
    8. Does the pet sitter have a service contract which spells out
       services the pet sitter will provide and fees for doing so?
    9. Are the company and/or sitter in good standing with the Better
       Business Bureau?
   10. Does the pet sitter have regular office hours or return customer
       inquiries promptly?
   11. Is the sitter recommended by someone you trust - either your vet,
       trainer, dog show buddies, etc?
   12. Does the pet sitter have a veterinarian on call for emergency
       services?
   13. What contingency plan for pet care does the pet sitter have in the
       event of inclement weather or personal illness?
   14. Does the company have a training program for their sitters?
   15. How does the pet sitting service recruit and screen applicants?
       Are there any prerequisites for employment?
   16. Does the pet sitter or pet sitting service telephone to determine
       if the client has returned home as scheduled or require that the
       client notify the company or pet sitter of their arrival home?
   17. Does the pet sitter or company provide a rating form for customer
       feedback and evaluation of pet sitting services?
   18. Does the pet sitting service have an established system for
       handling customer complaints?
   19. When does the sitter get paid? Before or after you come back? A
       deposit up front and the rest later?
       
   Try to find word of mouth recommendations. You might try calling
   several vets in your area to see if they have any recommendations.
   Check with the local SPCA and with Better Business Bureau for any
   specific complaints lodged with a particular business.
   
  Kennels
  
   Look around for a good one. Experiences can be good or awful depending
   on the kennel.
   
   One resource: The American Boarding Kennel Association (ABKA) is based
   in Colorado Springs. You can use this organization to help you choose
   a kennel. If you write to them (or call them), they will send you a
   small packet of information. One part is a booklet on how to choose a
   kennel, and another part is a list of all ABKA accredited kennels
   around the country.
   
   An ABKA kennel is supposed to meet a minimum set of criterion that is
   spelled out in their literature. The things they suggest you look for
   and questions to ask involve a lot of common sense stuff, but there
   are good suggestions you might not think of.
   
     4575 Galley Rd., Suite 400A
     Colorado Springs, CO 80915
     719-591-1113
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Photographing Black Dogs

   Information compiled by Ruth Ginzberg, lightly edited by moi.
   
   Many people with black dogs have trouble getting a good photo of the
   dog. Some of the characterizations of how the photos turn out: "large
   black blob", "no, large black blob with pink tongue sticking out of
   it", "large black blob with eyes" (you get the idea).
   
   If you want a few QUICK HINTS on how to address this problem, here
   they are, as summarized well by Dennis Swanson:
    1. set the camera to underexpose by two stops from what it
       recommends, if possible
    2. whether this is possible or not, tell the photofinisher to forget
       the background and print your dog black but with detail in the fur
    3. for photos to be scrutinized by possible clients, have them done
       by a professional
       
   If you want more detailed information, keep reading. :-)
   
   Andy Kane has some advice about selecting a photo finisher:
   
     With 10 years of experience there is one answer to your question
     about black dogs being too dark and magenta(pink). Take your
     negatives to a local film processor, one that prints in lab, and
     wait for the results. If you get the same result ask them to please
     reprint your negative at -1 magenta and -2 denisty from where they
     have it right now. I do this work for a living. What normally
     happens is with the new scanners in print processors the total area
     of the negative is scanned and averaged for color and denisty.
     Therefore a black dog will print a little dark and if the
     background is grass (green) the the scanner will tend to over
     compensate and give you an dog with a little magenta tink(pink).
     The same holds true for the other problem print of a portrait of a
     person wearing a red shirt, in this case the flesh tones result a
     little cyan (blue,geen) the opposite of the red shirt. I see this
     black dog case everyday and I hope that I correct for it everytime
     but even good processors can miss and will be more than happy to
     redo your print at no charge to you. You can not get this kind of
     service from drug store or mail service processing labs. Good luck
     
   Ty Monson sympathizes with our difficulties, noting that photographing
   black animals is not a problem only for we amateurs:
   
     Seriously, photographing black dogs, cats, cattle, llamas, etc. is
     difficult. The difficulty is compounded by shooting color negatives
     and relying on Qualex (or other popularly-priced photo finisher) to
     produce the prints.[see above for advice] Assuming that a person is
     taking snapshots for the family album, I can recommend setting your
     pet against a dark background as a starting point. When the main
     subject and background are both dark, the printer will lighten the
     print.
     
   You will get more detailed features on the dog in the photo this way,
   but your dog will look lighter colored than s/he actually is. Jimmy
   Tung explained why this happens:
   
     First assuming that you're using negative film, and just some
     basics for everybody: The camera doesn't see a black dog. It sees
     an average object which must be kinda average grey (18% if you
     like) in color. So the meter will tell you something which will
     overexpose the pic, giving you a grey dog, as well as washing out
     the background. In the original post, the dogs were described as
     big black blobs with pink tongues, etc. If the photofinisher looks
     at the negative described above, he'll say "gee, these people would
     rather have a good looking background", so they start tweaking the
     density and color balance until you end up with all of the other
     colors OK, and a black dog, except now your black dog is too black,
     and it looks featureless.
     
   Marc Clarke expanded on this, explaining that:
   
     The problem probably comes from the fact that Through The Lense
     (TTL) camera meters try to render whatever reflective surface they
     are pointed at as an 18% gray. If you point a TTL camera's meter at
     a white house (or dog), the meter will indicate the amount of
     exposure you need to make the side of the white house appear as 18%
     gray. If you point the TTL camera's meter at a black dog, the meter
     will indicate the exposure you need to make the black dog appear as
     an 18% gray dog. TTL meters are really good at telling you what
     exposure to use for 18% gray things. TTL meters are lousy at
     directly telling you what exposure to use for black or white
     things.
     
   Ty suggests some ways you can try to get around this problem:
   
     Oh, but you DID want the dog to look BLACK? Black is the (relative)
     absence of light. The trick is to get enough gloss (luster, glare)
     off the animal's fur to define shape, without washing-out the
     blackness. Two things a snapshooter can do is photograph your pet
     1/4 side lighted from a window (overcast day) or set a piece of
     white poster board next to the animal (out of the camera's field of
     view.) A white wall may work, too. ... Be inventive. Look! The
     camera lens sees what your eye sees. If the lighting doesn't model
     your pet's form, the film won't record it.
     
     Oh, yes. Your black-petted friends will probably need to abandon
     the camera's built-in flash. A flash with a head that can be
     rotated for bounce flash can be made to work. It will take some
     experimenting, though.
     
   ...and Tom Wagner added:
   
     If you are taking flash photos, that is another problem for
     automatics. My personal advice is do not take flash photos of pets.
     Use a high speed film and whatever available light you have.
     Because pets have better night vision you will get a lot of "Red
     Eyed Shots."
     
   Jimmy also mentions the importance of lighting:
   
     Check your lighting, and make sure that details of the dog's coat,
     eyes, etc. are large and visible. That is, assuming you don't have
     off-camera flash equipment, position lamps and camera so that light
     is reflected off the glossy coat. That way, the dog doesn't look
     flat without the other visual cues our mind supplies, but the
     camera doesn't.
     
   Ellen McSorley's husband, Jonathan, who has experience photographing
   dogs, evidently with better equipment than many of us have, notes that
   even different breeds of black dogs offer different problems:
   
     ... Labs have glossier fur than Newfs. You've still got to have
     lots of light, so flash or spot metering is a must. I think ideally
     I'd go for off-axis flash, or a diffuser, or maybe a flash
     umbrella, something to give lots of light but not from a bright
     point source which is going to reflect straight back into the
     camera. That might make it look like the dog has Mylar (reflective
     plastic) bits in its coat (although that would be an interesting
     effect, and direct flash works on the Newfs because their coats
     aren't so glossy).
     
   Jimmy also mentions that:
   
     Some films are specifically color balanced for skin tones or bright
     colors or deep rich blacks and browns. I don't have a
     recommendation off the top of my head which would be appropriate.
     You might find that Fuji Reala might be well suited, but then
     again, Kodak Gold II might be just as good at a fraction of the
     cost. Ask your local photo supply store.
     
   and Stephen Samuel reminds us that:
   
     ... if you have a black dog and a white human in a picture with the
     same lighting, AT LEAST ONE OF THEM is going to end up looking
     poorly lit. Creative lighting is required. [A classic suggestion is
     to put the human in the shade and the dog in the sun.]
     
   BUT, no matter what you do with the lighting or the processing, it
   seems from what many people say that eventually you are going to have
   to deal with the fact that the automatic grey scale metering is thrown
   off by a black (or white) dog who makes up the largest part of the
   photo.
   
   Tom Davis (who says his dogs are Golden, to match his carpet) offers a
   suggestion for those with very automatic cameras:
   
     I'd guess that if a black dog fills a significant amount of the
     frame, it will wind up over-exposed by quite a bit, so if your
     camera has exposure compensation, you can set it to under-expose to
     compensate. Some cameras are totally automatic, so you're just out
     of luck. If you don't have exposure compensation, you can sometimes
     lie to the camera about the film speed. To make it under-expose,
     tell it you've got faster film.
     
     For samoyeds and great pyrenees, do the opposite. Well, at least
     for clean ones.
     
   But for those ready to grapple with light metering, Marc Clarke
   suggests:
   
     There are several different ways to get around this. First, meter
     something that is actually 18% gray in the same light that falls on
     the black dog. This gray card gives your meter something that
     actually is 18% gray. The black dog will show up as black (not
     gray). These gray cards are available in any photography store,
     usually in the book rack. Second, use an incident light meter.
     These meters read the light that is falling onto the subject rather
     than the light reflecting off the subject. They indicate the same
     exposure as a TTL camera's reflectance meter reading the light
     reflected off an 18% gray card. You can fake a gray card by using
     your TTL cameras meter and metering the light falling onto your
     open hand, then opening up one more stop. A hand (in fact, nearly
     all Caucasian skin) is about 1 stop brighter than an 18% gray card.
     
   But Brian Segal points out that:
   
     Your reflective meter will indeed want to show the dog as 18% grey
     if you simply rely on that reading. If you want about 5 stops of
     exposure latitude, then meter the dog's fur and stop down 1.5 to
     2.0 stops. If you stop right down to dense black there will be no
     detail of the fur.
     
     An incident reading will work more or less, but you really want a
     precise reading of the fur itself as it has its own reflective
     properties.
     
   Dave Miller kind of summed it all up with:
   
     UNDEREXPOSE BY TWO STOPS. That's it. Doesn't matter what camera you
     use. All a camera is is a light tight box to hold film.
     [...]
     The meters (for the most part) all work the same way and try to
     give you an 18% grey which is about 2 stops brighter than most
     black dogs. If the dog is brightly lit, then it might be only 1 to
     1.5 stops darker...
     
   Well, there you have it.
   
   Finally, Ty Monson gives the following (blunt, but probably correct)
   advice in response to a question about stud services or breeders who
   are photographing their dogs for the benefit of prospective clients:
   
     Breeders ought to have a skilled photographer produce the photos
     for showing prospective clients. No business is represented well
     with amateurish snapshots.
     
   Many thanks to the nice folks from rec.photo who offered their
   expertise to us sentimental dog lovers, who never can seem to have too
   many photos of our pets -- even when they do just look like large
   black blobs with tongues!
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Record Keeping.

  Breeders
  
   You should not rely on AKC to keep all your records straight. Breeders
   MUST keep official records on their dogs. There are numerous fines
   listed in the back of the Gazette for failure to maintain proper
   records. If you don't have your own record book, you should start one.
   If you are cited, you may have to start all over again with new dogs.
   That means that all the dogs you breed lose their AKC registrations.
   The AKC screws up a lot of things. That's why it is so important that
   breeders keep good files for their own breed club's use.
   
   Breeders need to keep records in a book about their breeding dogs.
   This includes the dog's registered name, number, sex, color, markings,
   date of birth, and OFA, CERF etc. Every time that dog is bred (either
   male or female) the date, the name of the other dog, the number of the
   other dog, and the number of the owner of the other dog goes into it.
   When the puppies are born, the number of puppies, sexes, colors,
   markings, date of birth and litter number is added. The breeder's
   name(s) is also included. On the litter registration form, the
   information is reprinted to get the individual registration forms.
   
   When the puppies are placed in a home, the new owner's name, address
   and phone number go into the proper places. (You can order these books
   from the AKC -- they are called "Dog Ownership and Breeding Record"
   books and they cost about $5 -- but they have enough pages for many
   dogs.)
   
  Titles
  
   For titles and points, keep a small bound notebook (so that the
   question never comes up whether pages have been added or removed) to
   record the judge's name, the number of dogs in the classes, the number
   of points, the date, the show, and the club sponsoring the show.
   Record obedience trials the same way. You may want to have a folder in
   which to keep all ribbons and copies of certificates and pedigrees
   along with a few pictures of the dog. You just need to have a record
   of your own -- like your check book -- to make sure someone doesn't
   goof up. Two records are better than one!
   
  Working dogs
  
   Dogs that work: e.g., Search and Rescue dogs, Police dogs, Disaster
   dogs, any that work in potentially liable situations or do work that
   may be challenged in court should have an ongoing record of their
   training and of actual cases. Note date and time, individuals involved
   in the training, the purpose of the training, how the training session
   was set up, how the dog did, and where it needs to improve. For an
   actual case, note all the specifics involved: who you talked to, where
   you got the scent article or other applicable information from, who
   was found/rescued/attacked, etc. If you can, go back and take pictures
   of the trail followed or other useful sites. Keep training and actual
   case records separate.
   
   If, for example, an SAR dog's identification of a felon comes into
   question, that record may prove the difference as to whether the
   evidence is ruled admissible or not. In contrast to the above for
   titles, keep training and case records in a loose-leaf binding, so
   that only the record pertinent to the case need be forwarded to the
   lawyers.
   
  Your personal enjoyment
  
   Anyone training a dog may find it useful and interesting to keep a log
   of their dog's progress in training. In particular, it might help you
   uncover patterns unique to your dog, or suggest other ways to approach
   training.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Removing Odors and Stains.

   There's a web site about removing stains from carpet that's worth
   checking: http://www.carpet-rug.com/stains.html.
   
  Removing urine
  
   For fresh urine: clean the spot with any good carpet shampoo (Spot
   Shot is one). Then soak it with plain old club soda, leave it for
   about ten minutes and blot it up.
   
   If the urine has soaked the pad and the floor below that, it will be
   difficult to remove the odor regardless of what you use.
   
   To find spots if you're not sure where they are, get a UV lamp that
   has the filter built in (to eliminate any remnant visible light).
   Urine fluoresces in "black light." You can get them at hardware
   stores. There are also UV lamps in hobby stores and places that cater
   to spelunkers and rockhounds, but they're more expensive. The UV
   source is safe as long as you use the longwave lamp and not the
   shortwave lamp used for tanning.
   
    Enzymatic products
    
   Products that remove odors: Nature's Miracle (carpet, has 800 number
   on bottle); Simple Solution (carpet and other items); Outright!
   (carpet, 214-438-0397); Resolve (carpet, perhaps other items); Odor
   Mute (originally for deskunking dogs, has other applications, leaves
   white residue, works on concrete, 507-642-8529). Odor Abolish, by
   Endosome Biologicals, may also be useful. These products use enzymes
   to break down the odor causing compounds in urine and feces, and are
   quite effective. From: dwm@pruxl.att.com {Doug Monroe) When using
   enzymatic products, it is important to use freshly diluted enzymes,
   let it soak in as deeply as the urine has penetrated, and *keep the
   area warm and wet for 24 hours*. Chemical reactions, including
   enzymatic reactions, go faster at higher temperatures. Unfortunately,
   most enzymatic reactions don't do well much over 102F (38-39C)-- so
   not TOO hot. Try covering the area with towels soaked in plain water
   after applying the enzyme, then a shower curtain or other plastic over
   that to make sure the area stays moist. The enzymes in laundry
   products are reportedly the same as those in the expensive
   odor-killing products, but they cost less than 1/3 as much. They work
   just as well. Biz is one product. You'll find it in your grocery
   laundry section with the pre-soak laundry stuff. Remember, you have to
   SOAK the area and then cover it to keep it from drying out. The smelly
   area must be WET with the enzyme for 24 hours or more.
   
    Launderable items
    
   On launderable items: put in the washing machine with a cup of vinegar
   and no detergent, then wash again as usual.
   
    Concrete
    
   If you have concrete (eg, in the basement) into which urine has been
   soaked, this can be difficult to remove, as unsealed concrete is very
   porous. You will have to neutralize the urine and then seal the
   concrete properly. A specialty cleaning service is probably the best
   way to properly neutralize the urine in the concrete. Vinegars and
   other cleaners may help, but only temporarily. Odor Mute is reputed to
   work on concrete. Improving the ventilation may also help. In extreme
   cases, pouring another 1/4-1/2 inch layer of concrete over the
   original concrete will solve the problem.
   
    Hardwood floors
    
   Hardwood floors that have been stained with urine can be difficult to
   clean. First treat with an enzyme-based product such as Nature's
   Miracle to remove the odor. You can find wood bleaches and stains at
   your hardware store: you may want to consult with one of the employees
   on what is available. You will need to remove any varnish or
   polyurethane from the area, sand it down a bit, bleach and/or stain
   it, and then apply the protective coat. There are also professional
   companies you can consult. In severely stained cases, you may have to
   replace the wood.
   
    Yard
    
   For your yard, gypsum is supposed to help lawns cope with urine. This
   is found in Jerry Baker's Plants are Still Like People.
   
  Skunks
  
   Some dogs just seem to like to tangle with skunks. Others only
   encounter one once or twice in their lives. Either way, there are some
   techniques for dealing with a skunked dog.
   
   The important thing is to get the skunk oil off a quickly as possible
   and don't let the dog spread the oil around. Also, the skunk smell
   seems to be easier to get rid of the sooner the dog is washed.

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