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Archive-name: sports/golf-faq
Last Modified: Thu Nov 6 12:52:50 EST 1997
This is the Frequently Asked Question (FAQ) list for GOLF
=========================================================
FAQ for GOLF
============
This FAQ list is intended to cut down on the number of "often asked
questions" that make the rounds here on rec.sport.golf and GOLF-L. This
FAQ list will be posted at least once a month. If you don't understand
something in the FAQ List, contact me and I'll attempt to help or else
point you to someone who can. In any case, let me know how I can make
the list more clear.
Send your additions/modifications to:
Marcelo Gallardo - marcelo@dunkin.Princeton.EDU
Contents and Changes
====================
Changes and Additions are noted by an *
1. Resource Information
1. List of Contributors
2. Electronic Newsgroups and Mailing Lists
3. List of Golf Archives
2. Equipment Information
1. Types of Golf Clubs
2. Types of Golf Balls
3. Types of Irons
4. Types of Woods
5. Types of Shafts
6. Types of Grips
3. Score and Handicap Information
1. Handicap Information
2. Scoring/Handicapping Systems
4. Instructional Information
1. What is a push/pull fade/draw hook/slice
2. What causes/How do I cure a slice/hook
3. What clubs should I buy
4. Should I buy Name Brand Clubs, or CustomFit/CustomBuilt Clubs
5. How does one find/pick a Custom Clubmaker
6. How do I build my own clubs
7. USGA Course Rating Information
5. Misc
1. Etiquette Tips
2. Hitting in Regulation
3. USGA Information
List of Contributors to the GOLF FAQ List
=========================================
I would like to thank all the various people who have contributed to
the GOLF FAQ List (both those that submitted questions as well as those
who submitted answers). If I've left you out, PLEASE E-mail me!
In no particular order:
o Dave Tutelman
o Mark Koenig
o Paul Bardak
o Brian Zimmerman
o Paul Jones
o Lothar Bittner
o Steve Blessing
o James F. Tims
o Chester Lee Barber
o Jonathan Reeve
o York Davis
o Jack Davis
o Paul Stroud
o Hal Hansen
o Steve Blessing
o John Campbell
o Randy Schrickel
o Peter Rigsbee
o Mark Dowdy
o Jeff Lovelace
o Dana Dawson
o Dave Stokes
o Alan Greenspan
o Martin Olivera
o Chris Tanski Jr.
o Iggy Konrad
o Ray Owen
o E. Reed Wilbur
o Bertil Engelholm
o Jeffrey Seymour
o Bob Ray
o Michael Wang
o Bruce Fisher
o Jack Miller
o Jerry Sy
o Phil Yastrow
o J. Gilliard
Electronic Newsgroups and Mailing Lists
=======================================
Newsgroups
++++++++++
rec.sport.golf is a newsgroup which discusses ANY subject as it
pertains to golf. For those people interested in the rules of golf,
handicapping procedures, golf equipment, swing techniques, or you just
want some information on golf courses across the globe this is the
place you want to be.
NEWSGROUP ETIQUETTE
-------------------
Recently there has been a discussion regarding COMMERCIAL postings on
rec.sport.golf. A COMMERCIAL posting is one in which you attempt to
SELL or ADVERTISE a product.
The readers of rec.sport.golf have decided that they DO NOT want to see
such posts.
To aid the readers in stopping these advertisements, a directory on
dunkin.Princeton.EDU has been allocated for thise purpose. In this
directory, people/companies wishing to advertise their merchandise may
place an "ad". You may connect to the directory via the WWW at
http://dunkin.Princeton.EDU/.golf/misc/Ads, or via anonymous ftp.
Mailing Lists
+++++++++++++
GOLF-L
------
GOLF-L@UBVM.CC.BUFFALO.EDU is a mailing list which has a gateway to the
rec.sport.golf newsgroup. This means that messages sent to the GOLF-L mailing
list will show up in rec.sport.golf, and messages posted to
rec.sport.golf will pass through the GOLF-L mailing list. So for those of you
that can't access USENET, you can still have access to all of the
information posted to rec.sport.golf.
In order to be placed on the GOLF-L mailing list, you will have to send a mail
message to LISTSERV@UBVM.CC.BUFFALO.EDU. The body of the message should
contain the following command...
SUBSCRIBE GOLF-L Greg Norman (use your name instead of Greg Norman)
You should receive a message within a few hours from Listserv asking
you to confirm your subscription. You must then follow the instructions
and confirm your subscription within 48 hrs. or the command will be
cancelled. After the subscription is confirmed, you will be added to
the list.
For help or more information regarding the GOLF-L Mailing List, send a message
to ctanski@quest.arc.nasa.gov (owner of GOLF-L).
ShopTalk
--------
shoptalk@conch.aa.msen.com is a mailing list discussion group on topics
relating to the craft of custom clubmaking and golf club repair. You
can exchange clubmaking tips and questions with fellow clubmakers.
To subscribe to the ShopTalk mailing list, you will need to send a mail
message to majordomo@mail.msen.com. The body of the message should
contain the following command...
SUBSCRIBE shoptalk
The SUBJECT line should be left blank.
For more information regarding the ShopTalk Mailing List, send a
message to jhm@ww1.msen.com (owner of ShopTalk).
List of Golf Archives
=====================
An archive consisting of information related to golf is being kept on
dunkin.Princeton.EDU.
The "articles" deal with things ranging from course information and
desciptions, to club making and design, and even a few GIFs of famous
courses.
The files in this archive are available by ftpmail server, anonymous
FTP, and WWW on dunkin.Princeton.EDU.
If there is any information you would like to see placed in the
archives, either drop them off via Anonymous FTP on
dunkin.Princeton.EDU, or send them via mail to
marcelo@dunkin.Princeton.EDU.
FTPMail Server
++++++++++++++
There lives an ftpmail server that will get files from the archive and
mail them to you. If you send mail to ftpmail@dunkin.Princeton.EDU,
with the commands in the body of the message, you should receive the
files via mail within a few days (usually the same day).
FTPMail works almost like anonymous ftp, except that commands are sent
via email, and the files are returned via email. ALL commands should be
put in the message BODY and NOT in the headers.
So for example if you wanted the clubdesn.0 article, you would send
mail to ftpmail@dunkin.Princeton.EDU with a line in the body which
looks like this...
open dunkin.Princeton.EDU
cd pub/golf/clubmaking
get clubdesn.0
quit
You can retrieve several files at the same time by adding the commands
on separate lines like so...
open dunkin.Princeton.EDU
cd pub/golf
get golf.faq
cd pub/golf/clubmaking
get clubdesn.0
get clubdesn.1
cd pub/golf/misc
get course.template
cd pub/golf/misc/course.info
get myrtle.summary
quit
or for the same set of files...
open dunkin.Princeton.EDU
get pub/golf/golf.faq
get pub/golf/clubmaking/clubdesn.0
get pub/golf/clubmaking/clubdesn.1
get pub/golf/misc/course.template
get pub/golf/misc/course.info/myrtle.summary
quit
or for the indexes...
open dunkin.Princeton.EDU
get pub/golf/README
get pub/golf/clubmaking/README
get pub/golf/clubmaking/Clubmakers/README
get pub/golf/misc/README
get pub/golf/misc/Ads/README
get pub/golf/misc/course.info/README
quit
If you need any more help, you can send a message to the mail server (
ftpmail@dunkin.Princeton.EDU) with the message of "help" (without the
quotes), or send mail to marcelo@dunkin.Princeton.EDU.
Anonymous FTP
+++++++++++++
The golf archive is also accessible via anonymous FTP on
dunkin.Princeton.EDU (128.112.232.87).
For those of you unfamiliar with anonymous ftp, here is an anonymous
ftp session to help guide you. I recommend looking through the
news.answers and news.announce.newusers news groups for further
information.
*************
% ftp dunkin.Princeton.EDU
Connected to dunkin.Princeton.EDU.
220 dunkin.Princeton.EDU FTP server (Version wu-2.1b(2) Tue Jul 20
14:35:05 EDT 1993) ready.
Name (dunkin.Princeton.EDU:marcelo): anonymous
331 Guest login ok, send your complete e-mail address as password.
Password: marcelo@Princeton.EDU < (you will not see this on the screen)
230 Guest login ok, access restrictions apply.
ftp> cd pub/golf < (top directory for GOLF archive)
250 CWD command successful.
ftp> dir < (gets directory listing)
200 PORT command successful.
150 Opening ASCII mode data connection for /bin/ls.
total 496
drwxr-xr-x 6 1000 bin 1024 Aug 4 16:02 .
drwxr-xr-x 4 bin bin 512 Jun 10 02:54 ..
drwxr-xr-x 2 1000 bin 1024 Aug 4 23:27 clubmaking
drwxr-xr-x 2 1000 bin 512 Aug 4 23:28 gifs
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 33951 Sep 29 03:26 golf.faq
drwxr-xr-x 2 1000 bin 512 Sep 16 23:42 misc
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 202574 Aug 4 16:04 pkz204g.exe
226 Transfer complete.
507 bytes received in 0.57 seconds (0.87 Kbytes/s)
ftp> cd clubmaking
250 CWD command successful.
ftp> dir
200 PORT command successful.
150 Opening ASCII mode data connection for /bin/ls.
total 176
drwxr-xr-x 2 1000 bin 1024 Aug 4 23:27 .
drwxr-xr-x 6 1000 bin 1024 Aug 4 16:02 ..
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 1021 Jul 16 01:37 cast.forged.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 3355 Jun 10 03:07 clubdesn.0.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 5912 Jun 10 03:07 clubdesn.1.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 11287 Jun 10 03:07 clubdesn.2.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 8177 Jun 10 03:07 clubdesn.3.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 5579 Jun 10 03:07 clubdesn.4.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 13144 Jun 10 03:07 clubdesn.5.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 1956 Jun 10 03:07 clubmake.start.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 5727 Jun 10 03:07 clubmake.tips.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 2344 Jun 10 03:07 clubmake.tips.addendum.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 1224 Jun 10 03:07 golf.assoc.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 5021 Jun 10 03:07 golf.comp.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 781 Jun 10 03:07 golf.paint.tip.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 898 Jun 10 03:07 grip.tips.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 1140 Jun 10 03:07 grphite.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 3764 Jul 16 01:38 ladies.clubs.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 1399 Jun 10 03:07 more.grip.tips.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 608 Jun 10 03:07 swgwght.cht.Z
-rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 6339 Jun 10 03:13 swingwht.tar.Z
226 Transfer complete.
1446 bytes received in 0.68 seconds (2.1 Kbytes/s)
ftp> bin < (set FTP into binary transfer mode)
200 Type set to I.
ftp> get clubdesn.0.Z < (requests clubdesn.0.Z to be sent to you)
200 PORT command successful.
150 Opening BINARY mode data connection for clubdesn.0.Z (3355 bytes).
226 Transfer complete.
local: clubdesn.0.Z remote: clubdesn.0.Z
3355 bytes received in 0.7 seconds (4.7 Kbytes/s)
ftp> quit < (self explanatory)
221 Goodbye.
*************
For more information on how to use anonymous FTP, please send mail to
marcelo@dunkin.Princeton.EDU.
WWW
+++
For those of you that have a WWW client, the archives are available via
WWW on dunkin.Princeton.EDU.
General Golf Club Information
=============================
What is a WOOD/IRON?
++++++++++++++++++++
The WOOD
Historically the "wood" was made of wood (hence the name), but they
now come in a variety materials. They are also generally "bigger",
in terms of size, than other clubs. "Woods" are typically long
distance clubs meant to be used when distance is more important than
accuracy. A driver is usually a '1' wood with somewhere between 8
and 12 degrees of loft (0 degrees of loft would be perpendicular to
the ground).
The IRON
Irons were originally made using "iron", but are now genarally made
from steel. "Irons" are smaller than "woods", and are considered to
be "finesse" clubs, meant to be used when accuracy is needed rather
than distance.
What does the number on the club mean?
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
For the most part, the number "represents" the loft of a club. The
lower the number, the lower the loft and the longer the club. The lower
loft and longer club will result in greater distance with a loss of
accuracy. This also equates to lower numbered clubs being more
difficult to hit.
What makes a "set" of clubs?
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
A "set" of golf clubs is restricted to no more than 14 clubs. What
constitutes this "set" depends on your preferences.
In general, a "set" will include the following clubs:
Irons:
3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, PW
Woods:
1, 3, 5
and a putter
This is not to say you have to carry all of these clubs. For example, a
beginner may carry a Driver (1 wood) or 3 wood, a 3, 5, 7, and 9 iron,
as well as a putter.
Types of Golf Balls
===================
Balata vs Surlyn
++++++++++++++++
Balata and Surlyn are ball-covering materials. But there are typically
other differences between balata and surlyn balls besides the cover.
Balata
++++++
A balata covered ball is typically a three-piece ball: a core wound
with rubber and covered with balata. There has been a lot of discussion
as to what "balata" is. Let's just say that balata is a soft substance
which leads to cuts and nicks. This "softness" is said to offer "better
playability" which is to say that the golfer can "shape" his/her shot
(fade/draw), and get more "action" (backspin) on the greens.
Surlyn
++++++
A surlyn covered ball is typically a two-piece ball: a solid core with
the surlyn cover. Surlyn is a man made "uncuttable" substance which is
designed to eliminate the cuts and nicks. The drawbacks of the harder
ball are that it is more difficult to "shape" his/her shot (fade/draw),
and get "action" (backspin) on the greens.
Quick Comparison
++++++++++++++++
** Balata **
1. Softer cover
o Better spin
o scuffs and cuts easily
2. "Works" the ball better because of spin (Draw, fade, backspin)
3. Usually three-piece ball (Liquid-filled core, wound rubber, and cover)
4. Usually more expensive:
o Higher first cost
o Shorter life
** Surlyn **
1. Harder cover
o Not as much spin
o resists scuffs and cuts
2. More distance
3. Usually two-piece ball (Solid core and cover)
4. Usually less expensive:
o Lower first cost
o Longer life
Compression
++++++++++++
Compression of a golf ball is designed to match the "feel" of the ball
to the golfer's preference. Typical compression ratings are between 80
and 100, with most players using a 90 compression ball as a compromise.
Many above average golfers tend to agree that hitting a 100 compression
ball feels like "hitting a rock". Contrary to golfing myth, there is no
correlation between compression and distance.
Notes
+++++
Now what you really want to know: Determining the type of ball you
should use, as well as the compression is purely preference. Some
people find that a surlyn covered ball is quite playable, while others
feel they need the "action" a balata ball gives. I generally play
whatever ball I find while searching for the ball I lost, but then
again I'm not on the PGA tour.
Types of Irons
==============
Investment Cast
+++++++++++++++
A "positive" or master model of the clubhead is made, usually made of
aluminum, which contains all engraved markings, scoring lines, and even
the hosel hole. Wax is injected into the master, which yields a
positive "wax" clubhead. The clubhead is then dipped into ceramic
several times to produce the negative mold. The wax is then melted, and
stainless steel poured into the ceramic mold. When the ceramic casting
is removed, you have the clubhead ready to be painted.
Forged
++++++
Forging a club is very similar to what the village blacksmith used to
do. Dies are "sunk" or cut, by milling the desired impression, and
forging is accomplished with a "drop hammer". The manufacturer is then
presented with a raw forging, which is a close approximation of the
clubhead desired. The clubhead must then be finished by milling,
grinding and drilling.
Muscleback
++++++++++
A Muscleback iron, also known as a "blade", has generally been
associated as a "forged" iron. While the manufacturing process isn't
really important, the design of the clubhead is. The muscleback iron
distributes the weight evenly throughout the entire head, producing a
small "sweet spot" in the center of the head. This is to say that a
shot hit in the center of the face will produce a longer, straighter
flight trajectory. Shots which aren't hit pure (off-center) will
produce a shorter, unpredictable flight trajectory.
Cavity Back
+++++++++++
A cavity back iron, also known as perimeter weighted, has generally
been associated as an investment cast iron. Again while the
manufacturing process isn't really important, the design of the
clubhead is. The cavity back iron distributes the weight around the
perimeter of the head, producing a large "sweet spot". This makes the
off-center shots more forgiving, flying longer and straighter, than an
off-center shot with a muscleback iron.
Quick Comparison
++++++++++++++++
** Investment cast **
o Usually a Cavity back
o Peripheral weighting, if cavity back
o More forgiving, due to cavity back
o Stainless steel
** Forged **
o Usually a Blade or Muscleback
o Central weighting, if a blade or muscleback
o Better "feel", due to muscleback design
o Carbon steel & chrome
Notes
+++++
Now what you really want to know: When investment cast heads were first
introduced, several companies claimed that the "feel" of the head was
lost. These same companies also claimed it was more difficult to "work"
the ball with the cast heads. Keep in mind that most golfers tend to
believe that a muscleback iron (usually forged) produces more "feel"
than the cavity back models (usually investment casted). They also say
that it is easier to "shape" the shot using the blades over the
perimeter weighted clubs. Before making a decision, you should try a
few muscleback and cavity back irons and see for yourself. For more
information please refer to Dave Tutelman's "Designing golf clubs"
articles.
Types of Woods
==============
Wood
++++
There are basically two types of wood used, persimmon and maple.
o Solid heads are usually persimmon.
o Laminated ("plywood") heads are usually maple.
Persimmon heads are made by using a sophisticated turning machine. The
process is much like making a duplicate key for a lock. The second, and
most commonly used, wood is laminated maple. Generally, 1/16-inch
veneers of maple are laminated together much like a sheet of plywood.
Then the veneers are heated and pressurized, and finally turned like
the persimmon heads. While many golfers indicate that they have a more
solid feel at impact with persimmon heads, studies show no support of
this. Other golfers prefer the laminated maple, reasoning that they
last longer.
Metal
+++++
Investment cast metal heads have gained popularity, mainly because of
the added control of peripheral weighting (which was not a true design
goal, but a product of the casting process to achieve proper weight).
The stainless steel heads are cast hollow to restrict excessive weight,
and usually filled with polyurethane to muffle impact noise. Metal
"wood" heads have also been noted as adding distance to center and
off-center shots.
Graphite
++++++++
The same material that is used for shafts is also used to make graphite
heads. There are two subtle variances in manufacturing techniques. In
one case, the graphite prepreg is mixed with an ABS plastic, and is
injection molded into a head. In the second version the prepreg is
given an epoxy base and the mixture is compression molded. Graphite
heads are manufactured with the same weight as the wood and metal
heads, but are generally much larger than conventional heads. This
increases the size of the "Sweet spot". No tests yet have proven
graphite heads to be more forgiving or longer than other materials.
Oversized
+++++++++
The general consensus is that "oversized" heads, generally made of
stainless steel or graphite, create a larger "sweet spot". This
produces a longer and straighter flight trajectory on off-center hits.
When using stainless steel, the walls of the head must be made thinner
to keep the overall weight "normal" (191-205 grams for a 1 wood). This
has caused some metal "wood" faces to "crush" or dent. For this reason,
some manufacturers are bringing "Mid-sized" metal woods to market,
which allows the "sweet spot" to stay large, yet keeps the walls of the
head thick to prevent denting.
Metal with Composite Face
+++++++++++++++++++++++++
In conjunction with "oversized" clubheads, manufacturers are starting
to use "face inserts" (normally plastic, graphite or lightweight
metals). This allows them to produced the larger sized heads without
worrying about the face crushing or denting. This also allows them to
keep the overall weight of the head down. Face inserts, in metal
"woods", is a fairly new design, and tests regarding their playability
and forgiveness have not been published.
Notes
+++++
Now what you really want to know: The type of "wood" you should use can
only be determined by what "feels right". While metal and graphite
heads can offer forgiveness on off-center shots, some argue that you
lose the feel you receive from true "wood" heads. Like the irons, you
should try several before buying.
Types of Shafts
===============
I found this to be the most difficult FAQ to answer. The shaft is the
most complex piece of a golf club, and probably the most important.
With varying degrees of flex, flex locations, weight, length,
materials, torque, etc., an article devoted entirely to the shaft is
needed, but not available. I'll do my best to answer some of the
questions regarding them.
Steel
+++++
Steel shafts are generally made from carbon steel or occasionally from
stainless steel. For the most part, the manufacturing process between
the two are similar. A steel strip is rolled into a tube, and is drawn
over a mandrel until the diameter and wall thickness are reduced to
their exact specifications. At this point the step pattern is formed on
the shaft. Then the walls are made thinner at the grip and thicker at
the tip to give the shaft its flex characteristics. Then it is
hardened, tempered, straightened and stress relieved. The final step is
to polish and chrome plate the shaft. One of the best features of the
steel shaft is the ability to have the same "feel" throughout the
entire set. This means that the stiffness in the 3 iron will will be
the same as the 9 iron. Other features are its durability and price.
Graphite
++++++++
Graphite shafts are made from a graphite tape. The tape, which has an
epoxy binder, is wrapped around a steel mandrel. The wrapped shaft is
then temperature cured and the mandrel removed. The raw shaft is then
sanded and cut to proper length, at which point it receives a clear or
colored paint coating. Its most talked about feature is its light
weight. It also helps dampen the vibration caused by clubhead impact
with the ground. A few of the drawbacks are the "feel" of the shaft
(some people complain that a stiff graphite shaft does not feel like a
stiff steel shaft), the stiffness may not be consistent throughout a
set, and its price tag. A new manufacturing process called "filament
winding" can produce a set with more consistency, but at a higher
price.
Titanium
++++++++
I have very little information regarding the titanium shaft and its
manufacturing process. Among some of its features are its weight
(lighter than steel), and its vibration dampening. Some complaints are
that the shafts are too stiff, and it carries a big price.
Stiffness
+++++++++
The stiffness, flex, or deflection of a shaft defines the bending
characteristics of the tube, when a load is applied to the shaft. The
most common shaft flexes are designated as X (extra-stiff), S (stiff),
R (regular), A (man's flexible), or L (ladies'). For people with high
swing speeds, it's desirable to have a stiffer shaft to keep the club
head from lagging behind. For people with slower swing speeds, the more
flexible shafts offer an extra "kick" at the bottom of the downswing to
help propel the ball.
Frequency
+++++++++
Some shafts are rated for "frequency", an alternative way to express
stiffness.The "frequency" indicates how how fast a "standard" club
would vibrate if made with that shaft. The stiffer the shaft, the
faster it will vibrate. A rough guide to translate between frequency
and traditional stiffness ratings is:
FREQUENCY STIFFNESS
cycles Grade
per minute
---------- ---------
<240 L
245 A
255 R
265 S
>270 X
Torque
++++++
Generally torque is a rating applied to a graphite shaft. It specifies
the "twisting" characteristics of the shaft. The normal torque rating
of a steel shaft for woods is about 2.5 degrees, and 1.7 for the irons.
The general range of torque ratings found on graphite shafts are from
3.5 to 5.5 degrees, although it is possible to get shafts with lower or
higher ratings. The higher the torque rating, the more the shaft twists
for a given twisting force. The torque rating also seems to be tied to
the stiffness of a shaft. The lower the torque rating, the stiffer the
shaft.
Kickpoints
++++++++++
The kickpoint, bendpoint, or flexpoint defines where the shaft will
bend. It affects the trajectory of the shot; the higher the kickpoint,
the lower the trajectory. The effect in trajectory is small but
measurable. For someone that generally hits the ball with a high shot
trajectory, a High kickpoint is desirable in a shaft. For someone with
a low shot trajectory, a Low kickpoint helps get the ball airborne and
on a higher flight path. The kickpoint also affects the "feel" of the
shaft. A golfer who can feel the difference finds the high bend point
makes the shaft feel like "one piece", while with the low bend point,
the shaft feels as though the tip whips the clubhead through the ball.
Notes
+++++
Now what you really want to know: The type of shaft a person should use
is one of the most often asked questions. It is also one of the most
unanswered questions. Choosing the material, flex, and kickpoint of a
shaft will depend entirely on what "feels" right when you swing the
club. Someone with a high swing speed may choose a steel shaft with a
flex rating of X and a low kickpoint, while someone with the same swing
speed may choose a graphite shaft with a flex rating of R and a high
kickpoint. The general consensus is see your local Pro and see what
he/she recommends. Make your decision from there. For more information
please refer to Dave Tutelman's "Designing golf clubs" articles.
Types of Grips
==============
Rubber
+++++++
Rubber grips are made by adding granulated cork, as well as other
materials in the liquid rubber. The "cork" serves to displace the
rubber, and is the reason many grips are called "composition" grips. It
also makes the overall weight of the grip lighter. The rubber/cork
blend is checked to assure the proper viscosity, and is then molded in
a high pressure molding machine. After molding, the grips are sanded
and painted. Some of the features of rubber grips are: easy
installation, "reminder ribs" for hand placement, and they are less
expensive.
Leather
+++++++
Most of the "stars" over forty use leather, while the younger players
use various rubber molded grips. The reason has very little to do with
the quality or playability of the grip, but simply a difference in what
each generation has been accustomed to. One of the features of leather
grips (generally made of cowhide or calfskin) is that they have a nice
soft, pliable, tacky feel. A few of the drawbacks are its difficulty to
install, and its price.
Cord/Half-Cord
++++++++++++++
Most of the more popular rubber models come in an optional "cord" grip,
in which strands of fabric thread are embedded in the rubber grip. This
makes for a better non-slip contact with hand or glove, especially when
wet with rain or sweat. However, it does wear out gloves faster than
non-cord grips. (Hands, too. :-)
Many of the "cord" models also come as "half-cord", in which the top of
the grip (where your thumbs are) are smooth rubber and the bottom
(where your fingers wrap around the club) are cord.
Quick Comparison
++++++++++++++++
** Rubber Grips **
o Slip-on design
o Easy to install
o Less expensive
o Rough when corded
** Leather Grips **
o Usually wrapped spiral design
o Harder to install
o More expensive
o Natural soft, tacky feel
Oversized/Undersized
++++++++++++++++++++
Grips come in a standard size, but can be padded to a larger diameter
with tape on the shaft under the grip. It is also possible to get
larger and smaller diameter grips. A few of the pros and cons:
** Oversized **
o For larger hands
o Minimize arthritis pain
o Decreases hand action, promoting a slice
** Undersized **
o For smaller hands (most women)
o Increases hand action, promoting a hook
Notes
+++++
Now what you really want to know: The type of grips a person uses will
be based on "feel". Some people like the natural soft feel of the
leather grips, while others refuse to use anything but corded composite
grips. Try going to a local golf shop and seeing which grips "feel"
right - and you can afford.
Scoring/Handicapping Systems
============================
Most of the following information was taken from articles posted to
rec.sport.golf with permission from the authors.
Handicap Information
====================
A handicap is only an Official USGA Handicap Index if you get it from a
golf club which follows the USGA Handicap System. The good news is that
becoming a member of a golf club doesn't have to be difficult or
expensive.
Many public courses host golf clubs with modest membership fees. Club
membership often entitles you to a few extra benefits - such as reduced
green fees, preferred starting times, as well as a chance to play in
club sponsored tournaments and meet new people. At the other end of the
scale are private clubs which can cost thousands of dollars per year
and may have long waiting lists.
Can't find a reasonably-priced golf club to join, or you don't want to
feel tied to one golf course? Then consider joining, or forming, a golf
club that doesn't have its own course. The USGA doesn't require a club
to have a course, and the minimum membership is just 10 golfers who
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